Solar panels are usually sold as a way to cut your electric bill. For many households they do exactly that. For others, the math quietly flips: the monthly lease or loan payment plus whatever is left on the utility bill ends up costing more than the old bill did. Here is how to check the numbers and what your options may be.

Run the real numbers first

Pull your last 12 utility bills and your last 12 solar payments. Add them together month by month and compare the total to what you paid for electricity in the year before the panels went up. Sales quotes often assume ideal production, so your actual figures are what matter.

Three things commonly push the math the wrong way:

• Escalator clauses. Many leases and power purchase agreements raise the payment every year, often by 1% to 3.9%. Over a 20 to 25 year term, a 2.9% escalator raises the payment by roughly 75% to 100%.
• Lower production than promised. Shading, a poor roof angle, or equipment problems can cut output well below the sales estimate.
• Net metering changes. Some utilities now pay less for the extra power your panels send back to the grid, which shrinks the credit on your bill.

Check whether you are still in a cancellation window

If you signed recently, timing matters more than anything else. The FTC’s Cooling-Off Rule generally gives buyers 3 business days to cancel many sales made in the home, and some states allow longer. Texas, for example, generally allows 5 business days on residential solar agreements. Read the cancellation section of your contract the day you sign, and send any cancellation in writing in the way the contract specifies.

Options once the window has closed

After the cooling-off period, your choices depend on the type of agreement and your state’s laws. Common routes include:

1. Asking the company for a buyout quote. Some lease and PPA companies will quote a price to purchase the system or end the agreement early. Get it in writing.
2. Transferring the agreement when you sell the house. Most leases allow a qualified buyer to take over the payments, though the approval process may slow a sale.
3. Refinancing a solar loan. If you own the system through a loan, a lower-rate loan or a home equity product may reduce the monthly cost.
4. Filing a complaint. If the sale involved misleading promises, your state attorney general and the FTC accept complaints, and the record may help later.

If you are weighing these options, independent resources such as SolarPanelExit.com explain how each route generally works and connect homeowners with help getting out of a solar panel contract when the numbers no longer add up.

Protect your credit while you sort it out

Whatever you decide, keep making payments unless an attorney tells you otherwise. Missed payments may damage your credit, and on some agreements they may lead to a lien or collection action against the home. Keep copies of your contract, every bill, and every message with the solar company.

The bottom line

Solar may still be a good deal for your home, but only if the payment is lower than the electricity it replaces. Run the numbers once a year, read the escalator clause, and act early if the savings disappear. Results vary by contract and state, and this article is general information, not legal advice.