Car Question

[LivingAlmostLarge]

What would you do with a 2006 hyundai Sonata with 80k miles that needed $1600-$2000 in repairs. One mechanic said two things needed to be repairs. We got a second opinion and he said something different needed work. Both said it would need alternator work in the near future (within 6 months I guess).

Should we fix the car? Sell it as is? Fix it minimally and drive it? Drive it and dump it when it dies? Get a third opinion.

The first mechanic we didn't like at all. But it's the closest one to where we lived. The second guy was from yelp. We were thinking maybe a dealership? Or a third mechanic? These are all free estimates.

[kork13]

A dealership likely wouldn't be a great answer...they'll tell you three or more things are also wrong, and charge you double the cost of the independent mechanics. Likewise, band-aid fixes almost never work out in your favor. If you want to keep the car, get it repaired, and repaired right.

If you're financially able to replace your (nearly) 10 y/o car, well.... Funny enough, my wife's car is very similar -- 2007 Hyundai Elantra, and we've already made the decision that if/when it has any significant problems, we'll sell it if possible, or junk it if not. It's only worth $5k-6k anyway, and a $2k repair wouldn't likely be worth it. We made that decision last year, and started saving up aggressively for her eventual replacement car... we now have over $12k saved for a replacement, but her car is still running strong! So I guess right now, we're sort of following your third option of "drive it 'til it dies".

It depends mostly on your financial state... Because a $2k outlay to extend the car's life by a year or two while you save for a replacement is still easier to handle than a $20k outlay for a new car that'll (hopefully) last another 10 years or so. Really, it depends on how comfortable you are knowing that your car may suddenly give out on you, versus the relative security in knowing that a new car should hold up for many years to come.

[cypher1]

What would you do with a 2006 hyundai Sonata with 80k miles that needed $1600-$2000 in repairs. One mechanic said two things needed to be repairs. We got a second opinion and he said something different needed work. Both said it would need alternator work in the near future (within 6 months I guess).

Should we fix the car? Sell it as is? Fix it minimally and drive it? Drive it and dump it when it dies? Get a third opinion.

The first mechanic we didn't like at all. But it's the closest one to where we lived. The second guy was from yelp. We were thinking maybe a dealership? Or a third mechanic? These are all free estimates.

What did they actually quote needed to be done for the two repairs? Can you break down the parts/labor?

As for the alternator, unless the pulley/bearing is making noise, how do they know that will need to be replaced in the near future? Either its charging the battery or not, and you'd jumping the car. Unless there's an electrical draw somewhere within wiring, and/or pushing more than 14v while running. Then yes, it should be replaced.

Get a 3rd opinion, or ask around your area for recommendations on reputable mechanic. I'm personally not a fan of dealerships, less flexible on labor as they typically charge full book time.

While the car may be close to 10 years old, the mileage and how you take care is key. IE my roommate has a 06 Hyundai Tucson with 170K, which he drives pretty hard. So it sounds like you have some mileage left. Depending on what the actual repairs are, it may be better to do them, instead of buying a new car and stuck with the unknown.

[snafu]

What is the current KBB value of the Sonata? What mileage? Have you been diligent about routine maintenance? I'd look at Lemon Aid used car book to see if repairs needed line up with typical problems of 10 y/o models. Car repairs are expensive but not having reliable transportation is the more serious issue. Can you talk to the teacher in charge of a High School automotive program about the issues? He should be available as his practicum students will be writing exams.

[feh]

Is that year/model of car known to have major issues?

80K miles is a low number for cars these days. Unless there are rust issues, I'd hope you could get another 70K out of it.

[Butterscotch]

I've had several mechanics tell me that mileage is more important than age on a car. 80k miles is not a lot of miles. I would get it fixed and avoid a new car payment (unless you have all the cash on hand), and new and likely higher insurance. Everything with cars is a gamble. But I bet there are still lots and lots of 2006 Sonatas on the road, many with way more than 80k.

My car is a 2010 Mazda that I paid off last year (0% interest). It has 125k miles on it. I don't plan to drive it into the ground, I plan to maintain it and take care of it so that hopefully I can get another 5 years out of it. I hated having a car payment!

[disneysteve]

80K miles is a low number for cars these days. Unless there are rust issues, I'd hope you could get another 70K out of it.

I've had several mechanics tell me that mileage is more important than age on a car. 80k miles is not a lot of miles. I would get it fixed and avoid a new car payment

I agree. At only 80K miles, I'd be fixing the car.

The problem, as you've discovered, is half the time I don't think the mechanics know what the hell they're doing. Either that or they know exactly what they're doing - scamming the customers. You've gotten two independent evaluations that told you two different things. Who is right? Is either one right?

I know people don't like dealerships but I tend to put a little more trust in them that they at least know what they're doing and are familiar with the vehicle. Take it to the local Hyundai dealer and let them check it out. You aren't obligated to let them do the work. If their price is much higher, take it back to the independent guy.

[ua_guy]

What would you do with a 2006 hyundai Sonata with 80k miles that needed $1600-$2000 in repairs. One mechanic said two things needed to be repairs. We got a second opinion and he said something different needed work. Both said it would need alternator work in the near future (within 6 months I guess).

Should we fix the car? Sell it as is? Fix it minimally and drive it? Drive it and dump it when it dies? Get a third opinion.

The first mechanic we didn't like at all. But it's the closest one to where we lived. The second guy was from yelp. We were thinking maybe a dealership? Or a third mechanic? These are all free estimates.

I thought those had a 10 year / 100k mile warranty? Maybe not?

What's wrong with it? (What else is wrong with it?)

An alternator isn't typically something that needs work, unless it fails. If it's making noise (usually an awful whine or whir, sounds like a dying vacuum cleaner), it's as good as failed. When they fail, the battery drains because the alternator supplies electrical current to the electrical system, which also keeps the battery in a state of charge.

Alternators generally aren't expensive (maybe a $200 part? --it's been a while since I replaced one) and *should* be an easy replacement (maybe 2-3 hours book time labor?). Of course, that really depends on the car. Some alternators require the front end of the car to be torn apart to get to them, and some alternators are very expensive (for example, certain BMW's use very high amperage models, that are liquid cooled).

Even if repairs end up costing $2k, that's probably still less than the book value of the car, so worth keeping and driving.

80k miles is not a numerically "high" number of miles, so theoretically you should be able to enjoy many more miles out of your car. Although that really depends on how the car is used and maintained--mileage isn't a great indicator of a car's useful life overall!

[tripods68]

80K is a low miles. My dad has the same car model/year that he drives today. Its maintain very well and drives well. It has 110K. I also own a Hyundai 2002 Santa Fe AWD (my 2nd Hyundai) we bought very cheap this summer with 170K. I replaced all the necessary parts (major replacements) to last for another 4-5 years (new timing belt, new head gasket, radiator & hoses, replaced CV boot, front struts, fluids) and replaced stock radio with Bluetooth for my iPhone 6.

My point is: Don't go to a car dealer. They just mark up the cost.

Go a local shops (at least 2-3 shops) to get the best estimate. You shouldn't need to spend more than $1000 for this repair.

I have a car shop that I go regularly. I pay them just for labor and they do all necessary repairs and they tell me the parts I need and I buy them online. This saves me lot $$. Unless your car is under warranty, there is no real benefit to take my car to a dealership for service anymore, except for recall/repair purposes.

[bjl584]

I'd fix it and keep it running.

What specifically is wrong with it? I'd look for another mechanic.

Even if it actually is $1600 in repairs, you should be able to get 5 or more years out of the car.

[LivingAlmostLarge]

Kork that's the issue is getting rid of the car or potentially dumping money into it.

Cypher it's not broken down but it is Front Upper Control Arm Brushing $680 plus tax and Timing Cover is Leaking Oil onto Alternator $1085 plus tax. Approximately $1941 after taxes. Other estimate is similar. There is no breakdown of labor and parts. But the other estimate says it's the timing belt for $580 and the shocks and struts $1100.

I guess I should call a dealership and see if this is covered?

Snafu we've done maintenance and had it completely checked out by a mechanic we trusted in June 2015 before it was driven cross country. WE had debated at that time selling it and buying something else when we landed and needed a car but decided our lemon was We bought it with used in 2012 with 56k miles and now it has maybe 80k miles. We haven't driven it a ton but we need it come February. I will see if there is high school shop class.

Feh I'm not sure. Butterscotch I don't think we're keeping this car unfortunately longer term than 6-12 months at most.

DisneySteve I'm going to call the dealership this morning and see if anything is covered.

Ua_guy we've taken care of the car since we got it. We never planned on having it long term. This was a short term plan until we decided what we would do with kids and if a minivan was in our cards. We likely are putting a minivan on the table in the next 12-24 months.

Tripod, I've gotten two estimates and they are way over $1k. How do I get it under $1k? I've never had a shop tell me what parts to buy online and then just do the labor. I don't know where else to turn for repairs. I'm getting very wary I'll be honest of all mechanics.

BJL see above. I'm not entirely sure what's wrong with two different answers. I'm getting frustrated. I picked the mechanic closest to us and one off Yelp. I've asked neighbors but two drive pretty far to people they used before they moved locally.

[LivingAlmostLarge]

Just called dealership and we're not under warranty. 10 year/100k warranty is only for original owner. All Hyundais get 5 year/60k warranty but we are way beyond that.

[tripods68]

I found these parts you mentioned. I'm not sure what model LX or GLS but search for it:

Control Arm Bushing for $12.95 plus tax & shipping

Timing valve cover $23.21 plus tax & shipping

new Alternator $41.88 plus tax & shipping

Complete Timing Belt Kit + Water pump $151.27 free shopping

$229.31 for parts + Labor.

The guy I've been going for years only charges me for labor no tax but I have a good relationship with him. He takes care my car and I keep going back to him. He does for it $80 hourly . The work can be done for less than $1000

Ask the mechanic to get the OEM parts number and buy it online.

[ua_guy]

I found these parts you mentioned. I'm not sure what model LX or GLS but search for it:

Control Arm Bushing for $12.95 plus tax & shipping

Timing valve cover $23.21 plus tax & shipping

new Alternator $41.88 plus tax & shipping

Complete Timing Belt Kit + Water pump $151.27 free shopping

$229.31 for parts + Labor.

The guy I've been going for years only charges me for labor no tax but I have a good relationship with him. He takes care my car and I keep going back to him. He does for it $80 hourly . The work can be done for less than $1000

Ask the mechanic to get the OEM parts number and buy it online.

The mechanic is probably using their own parts supplier and obtaining the parts just as cheaply, or cheaper. But they include their own markup and that goes to paying for their shop and also profit.

They're also probably charging "book labor" in the prices LAL quoted above. and that would include tearing apart the suspension and the front end of the car, putting it all back together. It might need an alignment too (usually $80+), depending on what they have to disconnect in the front suspension to get to that control arm bushing.

$80/hr sounds cheap for labor. In high COL areas I'd expect more like $90-$100.

[cypher1]

Cypher it's not broken down but it is Front Upper Control Arm Brushing $680 plus tax and Timing Cover is Leaking Oil onto Alternator $1085 plus tax. Approximately $1941 after taxes. Other estimate is similar. There is no breakdown of labor and parts. But the other estimate says it's the timing belt for $580 and the shocks and struts $1100.

Tripod, I've gotten two estimates and they are way over $1k. How do I get it under $1k? I've never had a shop tell me what parts to buy online and then just do the labor. I don't know where else to turn for repairs. I'm getting very wary I'll be honest of all mechanics.

BJL see above. I'm not entirely sure what's wrong with two different answers. I'm getting frustrated. I picked the mechanic closest to us and one off Yelp. I've asked neighbors but two drive pretty far to people they used before they moved locally.

Regarding the front suspension and getting 2 different estimates or answers, what did they say was actually wrong regarding those components? Front struts/springs shouldn't cost that much for that car. Same goes for the upper control arm (should cost under 30 or cheaper online). Its 3 bolts holding it in, and doesn't require dropping the strut (unless you end up replacing strut also).

As for oil leak on timing cover, is there a lot of oil dripping/leaking? Or is it just wet? I'm guessing this is a 4cyl which is cheaper to work on vs V6. Although that job is more labor intensive, so parts shouldn't cost as much since its probably the time cover gasket. Are they trying to sell you on replacing timing chain, tensioner, seals, etc? Because that number still sounds high.

IMO they're marking up that job over $400 more for the work done. Unless just a higher cost of living? I also question the troubleshooting/diagnostics done. But that's just my 2cents.

The mechanic is probably using their own parts supplier and obtaining the parts just as cheaply, or cheaper. But they include their own markup and that goes to paying for their shop and also profit.

They're also probably charging "book labor" in the prices LAL quoted above. and that would include tearing apart the suspension and the front end of the car, putting it all back together. It might need an alignment too (usually $80+), depending on what they have to disconnect in the front suspension to get to that control arm bushing.

$80/hr sounds cheap for labor. In high COL areas I'd expect more like $90-$100.

Spot on. Honest shops can be more flexible on labor costs, as they won't always go off book labor.