saving money DIY car repair

[greenskeeper]

Hope you get your VW sorted out. People I know who drive them fall into two categories: those who buy just one and vow to never go back, and those who buy one and are very handy and keep buying them because they thought the first 4 were just flukes.

I drive the TDI engine it just happens to be wrapped in a VW. No other manufacturer offered a diesel and manual transmission in a passenger car at the time of purchase.

VWs have stupid little things that break that drive you crazy. They also drive like a tank on wheels and don't feel like a deathtrap at speed like most appliance cars.

[elessar78]

Color me jealous. I wish I could DIY the more complex car maintenance jobs.

Tools cost money and I can't afford the downtown without a running car in the event that I can't get it running again before the weekend is done. Oh and I work six days a week now so I'd have a day to turn it around.

But I agree, for most home repairs, I hit up YouTube.

I need a good mentoring program that I wish someone offered. Everyone who knows how always seems to say how easy it is, but when you're coming in from the cold it's anything but. When our Accord had to be sold to make way for the minivan, I lobbied hard to keep it so we could have a third vehicle that I could learn on. But we made the decision that I didn't have time to invest in learning car repair at the moment.

I WISH plumbing/home maintenance/carpentry/auto repair was taught in my high school—probably far more useful than the endless art classes and history classes I sat through.

[cypher1]

People I know who drive them fall into two categories: those who buy just one and vow to never go back, and those who buy one and are very handy and keep buying them because they thought the first 4 were just flukes.

I guess I'm in the middle for euro cars. It seems all the owners I know who have them work on them themselves, or just pay some pay someone else for everything. Years ago I bought a B5 gen 98 Audi A4 1.8T with 80k for mileage. My favorite winter car for AWD in the snow.

However I don't miss working on them one bit. I didn't mind doing the timing belt after removing the front bumper, but multiple axles, wheeling bearings, tie rod replacements got old at under 100k. Don't get me started on oil sludge issues, and 10piece control arm setup with constant failures even with upgraded polyurethane control arm bushings didn't do much improvement.

Even all the special tools needed for certain jobs got old. VW/Audi were the first cars I finally got to use a 16mm socket on In hindsight I was lucky I never had to encounter a major or castrophic failure. I realize I'm generalizing most of those cars just off one main ownership/experience. And there have been various improvements/upgrades within their engineering. Awesome to drive, but not fun to work on IMO.

[tom edward]

I guess I'm in the middle for euro cars. It seems all the owners I know who have them work on them themselves, or just pay some pay someone else for everything. Years ago I bought a B5 gen 98 Audi A4 1.8T with 80k for mileage. My favorite winter car for AWD in the snow.

However I don't miss working on them one bit. I didn't mind doing the timing belt after removing the front bumper, but multiple axles, wheeling bearings, tie rod replacements got old at under 100k. Don't get me started on oil sludge issues, and 10piece control arm setup with constant failures even with upgraded polyurethane control arm bushings didn't do much improvement.

Even all the special tools needed for certain jobs got old. VW/Audi were the first cars I finally got to use a 16mm socket on In hindsight I was lucky I never had to encounter a major or castrophic failure. I realize I'm generalizing most of those cars just off one main ownership/experience. And there have been various improvements/upgrades within their engineering. Awesome to drive, but not fun to work on IMO.

My b6 passat is the same way. Everytime i need to change or work on something i need a new tool. Still cheaper then vw labor. Im in the process of selling it so i can get something domestic. This car is paid for and only 95k miles but the maintenance over the next 100k miles if it makes it is not worth it when compared to like a basic chevy impala.

[ua_guy]

What year? The 2.5 has a timing chain and the early ones had an issue with timing chain and guide failure. The guides wear down and the chain eats into the block. Basically ruins the engine.

I'd also keep an ear on the DMF and if it starts rattling to replace it with a single mass unit before it grenades.

Since I've completely hijacked this thread, might as well provide an update. The dealer says the rattling clutch is completely normal. (Really?) I politely disagreed, but if they're refusing to do anything about it, then my last hope is that it actually becomes an emergent issue in the next 10k, which is what's left on the warranty.

[greenskeeper]

I think you've got 4 options:

1) try another dealer

2) contact VW USA

3) replace the DMF on your own dollar

4) sell the car before it grenades and takes out the transmission housing

[falboe]

Love these stories! I drive the TDI engine it just happens to be wrapped in a VW. No other manufacturer offered a diesel and manual transmission in a passenger car at the time of purchase.

[cypher1]

Since I've completely hijacked this thread, might as well provide an update. The dealer says the rattling clutch is completely normal. (Really?) I politely disagreed, but if they're refusing to do anything about it, then my last hope is that it actually becomes an emergent issue in the next 10k, which is what's left on the warranty.

Don't know if you already figured out the clutch noise, but have you checked if the noise could be from clutch bearing instead? If the car is in neutral and you hear the noise, does it go away or change when pressing the clutch in? I've seen that in other cars, otherwise i'm not too familiar with DMF issues.

[greenskeeper]

Some more DIY car savings

idler pulley bearing going out on our 97 F250 7.3

Ford dealer quote to repair - $370

Idler Pulley at local auto parts store - $59

Actual bearing on the idler pulley that needs replacing - $2 online

I removed the idler pulley and was able to identify the part number on the bearing itself. I ordered the bearing online for $2. I put it in my press and removed the bad bearing. Installed the $2 replacement bearing and installed idler pulley back in the truck.

A savings of $368 over the Ford dealer quote, or $57 savings over buying the entire pulley at the parts store