Truck Maintenance

[ua_guy]

If it were mine and I was in California, I'd probably look at if I actually needed to buy a CARB-compliant converter. I think it's mostly about warranty and sale restrictions. I just did a quick search on Rock Auto for a 2.4L Dodge Journey and a regular EPA-compliant converter from reputable aftermarket brands (Walker?) is a couple hundred bucks. The CARB-certified one is almost $2k and it's a "Dodge" (mopar) OE model.

If you're not buying the converter in CA (like if a shop in Nevada buys it) I'd wonder how that would work.

I replaced a cat on one of my cars once. I don't have an ability to weld, and I wasn't able to get the joints tight enough with a clamp to eliminate exhaust leak. So ultimately it had to go to a shop to get welded. Cheaper than having a shop do the actual install though.

[QuarterMillionMan]

OEM is the gold standard and in my case Mopar but at a premium at $5000. However, after markets are allowed but specific models and engines have to match precisely in order to pass smog tests where the inspectors will be looking for these matches. I'm just about ready to buy one off Ebay for $889 where everything matches. About 6 pics will be forthcoming in separate threads so as I don't confuse myself.

[QuarterMillionMan]

[QuarterMillionMan]

Mine's is 2018 Dodge Journey.

[QuarterMillionMan]

[QuarterMillionMan]

[QuarterMillionMan]

[QuarterMillionMan]

My under the hood tag.

[QuarterMillionMan]

After market databse, my car has only 5 or 6 approved after market catalytic converters.

[QuarterMillionMan]

So far none of my local muffler shops nor automotive repair shops want to install after markets, only OEM. But 3 shops in Las Vegas said bring it and they'd install it for $500 - $800 labor.

[QuarterMillionMan]

Ua_guy, I see the Rock Auto $1885 OEM Mopar cat. converter which is a good price for OEM genuine Mopar part. I may get that instead of the after market one at $889. Which got me thinking Pepboys was going to charge me $3500 for that same $1885 OEM Mopar part. The Dealer at Dodge was going to charge me triple the Rock Auto's $1885. It's making my blood boil that they wanted to charge me double or triple Rock Auto's price. They are almost criminal.

[ua_guy]

Ua_guy, I see the Rock Auto $1885 OEM Mopar cat. converter which is a good price for OEM genuine Mopar part. I may get that instead of the after market one at $889. Which got me thinking Pepboys was going to charge me $3500 for that same $1885 OEM Mopar part. The Dealer at Dodge was going to charge me triple the Rock Auto's $1885. It's making my blood boil that they wanted to charge me double or triple Rock Auto's price. They are almost criminal.

Rock Auto does have discounts too.
they post codes on various car forums. I just used this one for an order which arrived today. 5% is about all they do but on a $2k order, that’s lunch for a week at least!!

223553393201161409

that code should be good through Feb 3rd. They roll the codes every few months, just have to Google. You enter it in the “how did you hear about us” field. Tab out of the field after entering the code and it should recalculate your total.

[QuarterMillionMan]

Add another problem albeit a small one but one tire has a slow leak and 5x's the low tire indicator comes on so I refill the air. Today I took it to a Tire Depot and the guy said no visual screws or nails using a light. I told him the tire needs to go in a water tub and air bubbles might be seen. He said today is raining and air bubbles would show on the wet tire. I gave up and told the guy that I will take it somewhere else. I told the guy that I used to fix tires and used to always put the tire in a water tub which is the only way to check for air bubbles. The guy was lazy and didn't want to pull off the tire to check it the proper way. Sheesh wasted 2 hours today at the Tire Depot in the rain.

[ua_guy]

Sorta related, I'm having a dilemma about tires right now. Just over 10 years ago I put a new set of Goodyear Duratracs on a Jeep. I've only driven it about 45,000 miles over the same time, and I've done regular rotations including a 5th tire. The tires are still in really good shape, plenty of tread. But 10 years is the advertised expiration date within the tire industry, and with enthusiast groups too. If you're playing and using the tire what it's meant for, it's not a bad idea to replace based on age.. In the motorhome world, 10 years on a set of tires is riding on borrowed time, basically. There's no signs of cracking or dry rot, so I'm hesitant to buy a new set. I probably should, though. I'm obsessive about maintenance stuff so this is one of those moments. Should I be cheap like my father (he'd run the old tires until failure), or should I pay money to be theoretically safe and have defensibly new tires. We'll be taking the Jeep to Moab in about three months.

The local Les Schwab bent over backwards for us on something recently. Basically we brought them a flat tire to repair and they ended up damaging the tire, destroying it. Well, can't have just one new tire and 3 old ones on a performance AWD system. The circumference of all 4 tires need to be within a narrow range of each other (I think they said no more than 4/32"). Long story short, they sprang for 4 new tires for us, no charge, and those tires were about $300. Each. So I might go up and have them put a new set of tires on the Jeep and it will probably cost $1200. One of the very rare instances of a corporate-owned entity going above and beyond!!

[kork13]

Sorta related, I'm having a dilemma about tires right now. Just over 10 years ago I put a new set of Goodyear Duratracs on a Jeep. I've only driven it about 45,000 miles over the same time, and I've done regular rotations including a 5th tire. The tires are still in really good shape, plenty of tread. But 10 years is the advertised expiration date within the tire industry, and with enthusiast groups too. If you're playing and using the tire what it's meant for, it's not a bad idea to replace based on age.. In the motorhome world, 10 years on a set of tires is riding on borrowed time, basically. There's no signs of cracking or dry rot, so I'm hesitant to buy a new set. I probably should, though. I'm obsessive about maintenance stuff so this is one of those moments. Should I be cheap like my father (he'd run the old tires until failure), or should I pay money to be theoretically safe and have defensibly new tires. We'll be taking the Jeep to Moab in about three months.

The local Les Schwab bent over backwards for us on something recently. Basically we brought them a flat tire to repair and they ended up damaging the tire, destroying it. Well, can't have just one new tire and 3 old ones on a performance AWD system. The circumference of all 4 tires need to be within a narrow range of each other (I think they said no more than 4/32"). Long story short, they sprang for 4 new tires for us, no charge, and those tires were about $300. Each. So I might go up and have them put a new set of tires on the Jeep and it will probably cost $1200. One of the very rare instances of a corporate-owned entity going above and beyond!!

My family's experience with Les Schwab is pretty similar. Between a few different experiences with them, my parents became devoted Les Schwab customers. Although it's a fairly large corporation, I believe Les Schwab is primarily a regional (Pacific NW) company, and those sort somehow tend to be the ones both most interested & most capable of having company-wide policies that really focus on customer experience & relationships.

As for the replacement.... I'd say take them in & get them inspected (at Les Schwab, of course ). If there's no sign of age & excess wear, with plenty of tread & the rubber hasn't degraded .... I would see no reason to replace the tires just because you've hit an arbitrary age on them. The actual state of the tires is far more important than how long they've been around.