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Old 06-16-2009, 10:43 AM
am_vanquish am_vanquish is offline
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Default Check Engine Light

I was cruising along this weekend when I noticed the "Check Engine" light was illuminated on my dashboard. I drive a 1999 Mazda Protege (not in great shape, but it doesn't need repairs every other month either). I know hasn't been on for long. Prior to this weekend, I didn't notice anything out of place with the way it was driving (other than the usual things for a 10-year-old car). It's still running the same as before, but now I'm paranoid & I think every little squeak is something horrible.

I don't want to avoid this too long & make any problems worse. However, I also don't want to pay too much for a simple problem (I read that not tightening your gas cap all the way can even set off the light). All mechanics I've called have told me it will cost $90 to "diagnose" the problem. One place told me they could pull the codes for free, but would also charge $90 to diagnose the problem. Apparently they can only tell me if it's the transmission, o-2 sensor, engine, etc. Past that, it could still be something simple & cheap or something horrible & expensive.

I'm looking for any suggestions/advice that would be helpful. Let me know if there's any more info you need.
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Old 06-16-2009, 10:59 AM
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disneysteve disneysteve is offline
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They sell the sensors that you can plug in yourself and get the codes. They are a little pricey but perhaps you can find a friend or relative who has one. Maybe even get a cheaper one on ebay. I've thought about buying one myself since we have two older cars. Use it twice and it pays for itself.
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Old 06-16-2009, 11:08 AM
irmanator irmanator is offline
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If you have an auto zone they can check it for you for free.
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Old 06-16-2009, 11:17 AM
tripods68 tripods68 is offline
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Unless you have all the necessary tools to diagnosed your car, go for it. Otherwise, it is usually better to eat the $60 bucks and have a professional mechanic look at it and tell you what's wrong with your car. If your going to the same repair shop that diagnosed it, ask for a discount on the diagnosis or for total repair jobs. It doesn't hurt to ask especially if you used that same mechanics in the past.

If it a sensor problem, you have to replace it. I know engine lights "bug" me the most. I usually take care of it as soon as it appears.
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Old 06-16-2009, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irmanator View Post
If you have an auto zone they can check it for you for free.

Advance Auto Parts does free diagnostics too.

My husband works in the parts industry and was formerly an auto tech, and we have a diagnostic code reader at home. It's saved us a ton of money because we both drive finnicky cars (2 Volvos, 2 Saabs) and our lights turn on for everything. His has thrown a code on the gas cap before. Mine has triggered a "check engine" light when one of my brake lights was out. Another time was because the cam shaft position sensor was out- the brake light was a quick, inexpensive issue that I wouldn't want to pay a mechanic to fix (or the gas cap ), but the cam shaft sensor was pretty pricey (although easy to install).
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Old 06-16-2009, 11:30 AM
tripods68 tripods68 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irmanator View Post
If you have an auto zone they can check it for you for free.
I didn't know this. I should visit there next time.

Thanks.
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Old 06-16-2009, 12:45 PM
am_vanquish am_vanquish is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irmanator View Post
If you have an auto zone they can check it for you for free.
I just got off the phone with an Auto Zone about 4 miles away. They said they'll check it for free & it'll only take 2 seconds. That's quite a contrast to the Pep Boys store that's 0.5 miles from the house. I called them on Saturday & they said I'd have to leave it overnight & they'd charge me $95.

I'm going to stop by after work today ... now I'm crossing my fingers and hoping it's nothing major! If it sounds like something serious, I'll take it to my regular mechanic, who's probably going to charge me $80 just to look at it.

-Thanks irmanator!!

Last edited by am_vanquish : 06-16-2009 at 12:46 PM. Reason: shout-out to irmanator
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Old 06-16-2009, 01:02 PM
red92s red92s is offline
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Code readers have gotten fairly cheap in recent years:
Amazon.com: Autel MaxiScan MS300 CAN OBD-II Code Reader: Automotive

Some diagnostic trouble codes are universal and apply to all vehicles, while others are manufacturer specific. While the code certainly can help in determining what SYSTEM the problem lies in, it does not indicate WHY a particular error is occuring.

For instance, the thermostat on my Protege failed last year, causing the car to overheat and the check engine light to come on. The code indicated that the ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor had originated the code. So I tried replacing the ECT sensor, and the car still overheated. Then I replaced the thermostat and the problem went away (there is no sensor for the thermostat). The ECT sensor was a SYMPTOM not a CAUSE: it tripped out and turned on the check engine light once the coolant temp got to high.
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Old 06-16-2009, 09:33 PM
nmboone nmboone is offline
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When my 03 Civic light comes on it just says something about Maintenance. It usually just means that it's time for it to be looked at for regular maintenance and nothing major. I have it reset on the next oil change. This is obviously not the case for you, but don't worry too much and definetely go to AutoZone. If they aren't busy they are usually really nice about it. However I do think they had a limit for the car year that they can diagnose. At the one my sister visited the years were 2000+.
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Old 06-17-2009, 04:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nmboone View Post
I have it reset on the next oil change.
A bit of a side note, but how do you get the maintenance lamp reset? For my '07 Civic Si, it goes off for oil changes and anything bigger, and I'd like to start doing at least the oil myself, but have no idea if/how I can get the thing reset. My warranty is about to run out, and the local dealership just tried to up-sell me on a couple maintenance non-issues, so I'm now leery of going there to ask them to do it...
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Old 06-17-2009, 04:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kork13 View Post
A bit of a side note, but how do you get the maintenance lamp reset? For my '07 Civic Si, it goes off for oil changes and anything bigger, and I'd like to start doing at least the oil myself, but have no idea if/how I can get the thing reset. My warranty is about to run out, and the local dealership just tried to up-sell me on a couple maintenance non-issues, so I'm now leery of going there to ask them to do it...
My daugther has an 06 civic. I have changed her oil the last three times. Your dash button on the left has a sequence where you can reset the oil life. I have to re-learn it everytime so you may want to consult your manual.

Hers uses 5w 20 oil, make sure you know which oil to use. Do not worry about using Honda oil, we use valvoline.

Last edited by maat55 : 06-17-2009 at 04:54 AM.
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Old 06-17-2009, 05:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maat55 View Post
My daugther has an 06 civic. I have changed her oil the last three times. Your dash button on the left has a sequence where you can reset the oil life. I have to re-learn it everytime so you may want to consult your manual.

Hers uses 5w 20 oil, make sure you know which oil to use. Do not worry about using Honda oil, we use valvoline.
Much thanks, I'll look for that then.
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Old 06-17-2009, 07:06 AM
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Also keep in mind that when the check engine light goes on it just means take it in soon to get it checked out. If the check engine light is flashing, stop driving the car immediately as that means there may be a serious problem that may cause damage to your engine.
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Old 06-17-2009, 08:58 AM
am_vanquish am_vanquish is offline
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UPDATE: I stopped by AutoZone last night & they pulled the code. The OEM Number was P0455 & the technician said it's the fuel cap. The store was busy, so he really just said "fuel cap" and handed me a printout. He didn't have time for any other questions, which I understand. Rhe print-out he gave me listed the following probable causes:
1. Faulty Fuel Cap
2. Canister faulty
3. Purge valve solenoid faulty
4. Damaged/leaking EVAP hose
5. Faulty EVAP leak detection pump.

I tightened the fuel cap this weekend after the light first came on, so I doubt that a loose fuel cap is the problem. However, I did read online somewhere that it can take a few trips to "reset."

I really don't want to start running down this list replace things that aren't actually the source of the problem. However, I also don't want to pay $80-$90 for my mechanic to tell me I need a new fuel cap.

As of right now, I'm thinking about just driving it until this weekend to see if it goes away. From the list above, it doesn't look like I'll do a ton of damage if I wait a little while. But, I'm not very knowledgeable about cars, so ...
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Old 06-17-2009, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InsuranceGuy View Post
Sometime AutoZone can do that. I tried and they told me they could not plug into my car for some reason.

You might have to visit the dealer...
what year is your car?
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Old 06-17-2009, 09:30 AM
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A retail outlet like Autozone only has a basic code reader. They'll be able to give you a baseline code. It's basically a place to start. It will identify a system in your car that is experiencing trouble and causing your check engine light to come on. From there, you will have to figure out which component within the system is failing. It could be one of many things. the only way to determine specifically what is wrong is to go to a repair shop that has a more advanced code reader or to try and trouble shoot it yourself. Both options can get expensive. There is something wrong with your emissions system from the code you gave. I'm going to go ahead and guess that you have a bad selenoid somewhere in your emission control system that isn't allowing a valve to open and recirculate your emission gasses. It's probably fairly inexpensive if you can do the job yourself.
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Old 06-17-2009, 09:39 AM
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Of course, sometimes something stupid goes wrong. A while back, my light came on. I took it to the shop. They checked everything and it turned out that the sensor that makes the light come on went bad. There was nothing at all wrong with the car. Isn't technology wonderful?
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Old 06-17-2009, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by am_vanquish View Post
UPDATE: I stopped by AutoZone last night & they pulled the code. The OEM Number was P0455 & the technician said it's the fuel cap. The store was busy, so he really just said "fuel cap" and handed me a printout. He didn't have time for any other questions, which I understand. Rhe print-out he gave me listed the following probable causes:
1. Faulty Fuel Cap
2. Canister faulty
3. Purge valve solenoid faulty
4. Damaged/leaking EVAP hose
5. Faulty EVAP leak detection pump.

I tightened the fuel cap this weekend after the light first came on, so I doubt that a loose fuel cap is the problem. However, I did read online somewhere that it can take a few trips to "reset."

I really don't want to start running down this list replace things that aren't actually the source of the problem. However, I also don't want to pay $80-$90 for my mechanic to tell me I need a new fuel cap.

As of right now, I'm thinking about just driving it until this weekend to see if it goes away. From the list above, it doesn't look like I'll do a ton of damage if I wait a little while. But, I'm not very knowledgeable about cars, so ...
Some more info for you. I would see if whoever checked the code can "clear" it from memory for you after checking your gas cap for tightness. Even when a problem is fixed, the error code is retained in memory. This can also be done by disconnecting the battery for ~10 minutes on most cars.

You are likely not damaging anything buy continuing to drive. If anything, you are just allowing more fuel vapors to escape to the atmosphere rather than being combusted in the engine. Not necessarily a "bad" thing to be doing to your car, but you certainly won't pass any state emission inspection with it.



Quote:

Symptoms

You likely won't notice any drivability problems.
Causes

A code p0455 most likely means one or more of the following has happened:

* A loose or improperly affixed gas cap
* A non-conforming gas cap (i.e. not factory/original brand)
* Other leak or damaged piece in EVAP system

Possible Solutions

With a p0455, the most common repair is to:

* Remove and reinstall the gas cap, clear the codes, and drive for a day and see if the codes come back.
* Otherwise, replace the gas cap, and/or
* Inspect the EVAP system for cuts/holes in tubes/hoses (you may hear a vacuum noise or smell fuel), repair if necessary
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Old 06-17-2009, 01:41 PM
am_vanquish am_vanquish is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red92s View Post
Some more info for you. I would see if whoever checked the code can "clear" it from memory for you after checking your gas cap for tightness. Even when a problem is fixed, the error code is retained in memory. This can also be done by disconnecting the battery for ~10 minutes on most cars.

You are likely not damaging anything buy continuing to drive. If anything, you are just allowing more fuel vapors to escape to the atmosphere rather than being combusted in the engine. Not necessarily a "bad" thing to be doing to your car, but you certainly won't pass any state emission inspection with it.
Red, thanks for the advice. You seem to know what you're talking about & you've got a great way of communicating it. I will disconnect the battery tonight to reset the light. Hopefully it was a loose gas cap & the light won't come back on. If it does, I'll replace the gas cap (I found out they're only10 bucks) & reset it again.

If that still doesn't fix it, I'll give up and pay the $80-$90 to have a "professional" take a look at it. red92s, if you're available, I'll have you take a look at it ... I trust you. Surely you live in close proximity to the metro atlanta area, right???
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Old 06-17-2009, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by am_vanquish View Post
UPDATE: I stopped by AutoZone last night & they pulled the code. The OEM Number was P0455 & the technician said it's the fuel cap. The store was busy, so he really just said "fuel cap" and handed me a printout. He didn't have time for any other questions, which I understand. Rhe print-out he gave me listed the following probable causes:
1. Faulty Fuel Cap
2. Canister faulty
3. Purge valve solenoid faulty
4. Damaged/leaking EVAP hose
5. Faulty EVAP leak detection pump.

I tightened the fuel cap this weekend after the light first came on, so I doubt that a loose fuel cap is the problem. However, I did read online somewhere that it can take a few trips to "reset."

I really don't want to start running down this list replace things that aren't actually the source of the problem. However, I also don't want to pay $80-$90 for my mechanic to tell me I need a new fuel cap.

As of right now, I'm thinking about just driving it until this weekend to see if it goes away. From the list above, it doesn't look like I'll do a ton of damage if I wait a little while. But, I'm not very knowledgeable about cars, so ...
You may have to have auto-zone clear the code. Sometime fixing the problem does not clear the code. It could be fixed, but needing the code clear electronically.
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