Painting questions

[Joan.of.the.Arch]

Trying to do this painting job frugally AND apprpriately!

1.) Some of my paint was out in the unheated garage over two winters. Both my KILZ primer and white latex. If they freeze at say, 10 degrees, then they will have frozen. Can I still use them?

2.) I think the ceiling of the room may be a matte oil paint, from many years ago. I haven't chipped it to check, but it might be the original paint from when the addition was done in 1946! Does a matte oil paint need to be primed to make latex stick?

3.) Son had maps taped on his walls with duct tape. When I pulled it off, it pulled paint with it all the way down to bare plaster. At least I think it is some kind of plaster. It is dark grey like concrete and is as hard as concrete. It is not any kind of wallboard. When we removed wallpaper years ago, we could see that the material was built up in large layers, almost like poured concrete, but like bricks. But this is a second floor addition and the ceiling appear to be made of the same material so I don't think it could really be poured concrete.

We sanded and washed those walls to remove wallpaper sizing and any glue back when we painted it 15 years ago. The walls remained very, smooth almost slick or waxy feeling. At the time we primed before painting. So now the pulled off paint --and primer-- has revealed spots of that grey plaster/concrete again. How do I proceed? Prime it again? Spackle to level it with surrounding paint and them prime it?

The paint pulled so cleanly off of the grey plaster that I suspect the primer did not really adhere as it should have. Actually, I'm thinking we washed with TSP, too, if that matters.

Hoping someone can save me using the wrong products. I plan to go to a local paint store for advice, but feel like I could use a second opinion.

Ideas?

[Seeker]

Originally Posted by Joan.of.the.Arch

Trying to do this painting job frugally AND apprpriately!

1.) Some of my paint was out in the unheated garage over two winters. Both my KILZ primer and white latex. If they freeze at say, 10 degrees, then they will have frozen. Can I still use them?

2.) I think the ceiling of the room may be a matte oil paint, from many years ago. I haven't chipped it to check, but it might be the original paint from when the addition was done in 1946! Does a matte oil paint need to be primed to make latex stick?

3.) Son had maps taped on his walls with duct tape. When I pulled it off, it pulled paint with it all the way down to bare plaster. At least I think it is some kind of plaster. It is dark grey like concrete and is as hard as concrete. It is not any kind of wallboard. When we removed wallpaper years ago, we could see that the material was built up in large layers, almost like poured concrete, but like bricks. But this is a second floor addition and the ceiling appear to be made of the same material so I don't think it could really be poured concrete.

We sanded and washed those walls to remove wallpaper sizing and any glue back when we painted it 15 years ago. The walls remained very, smooth almost slick or waxy feeling. At the time we primed before painting. So now the pulled off paint --and primer-- has revealed spots of that grey plaster/concrete again. How do I proceed? Prime it again? Spackle to level it with surrounding paint and them prime it?

The paint pulled so cleanly off of the grey plaster that I suspect the primer did not really adhere as it should have. Actually, I'm thinking we washed with TSP, too, if that matters.

Hoping someone can save me using the wrong products. I plan to go to a local paint store for advice, but feel like I could use a second opinion.

Ideas?

1) No experience with frozen/thawed paint. I would guess that the ability to mix properly after freezing would be a problem though. So I'd discard these appropirately and get fresh paint.

2) Yes, any kind of oil would be a problem painting over with water-based latex without priming. Unless you want to be able to see through the latex. Painting over oils tends to give a mottled effect.

3) Spackle it, make sure it dries completely. Prime it, make sure it dries completely. Paint.

TSP is strong stuff. I don't remember if they tell you to wash the TSP off afterward, but I think I did that and had good results.

Please get opinions from the hardware guys as well... things may be different in your area.

I've always used outdoor paint in the bathrooms, laundry and kitchen... and would recommend it for most situations. Unfortunatly, if you want to go latex afterward, it too will require sanding/priming.

[Seeker]

Also if you don't like the smooth wall look, there's "texture" products that you can buy now. Spray cans work fine as well as the roll on material.

Most wallboard have a coat of primer on top of it or a sheet of paper that is textured. The center of it tends to be the concrete cement grey that you mention.

Duct tape is pretty strong stuff for hanging posters!!!

[Joan.of.the.Arch]

Thanks you two. I spackled and will prime the ceiling and spackled spots tomorrow. Of course, I also stopped to spackle a crack in the adjoining hallyway, so now I must paint that, too. And being up near the ceiling, I'm thinking, gosh this would look good with some crown moulding.

Seeker, once I tried a texturing product on my equally smooth, hard looking dining rooms walls. It was just perlite, a mineral product I was familiar with from horticulture. I was told to stir it into my paint and apply with a deep nap roller. It didn't work at all. All the perlite stay on my roller.