Answers to your auto maintenance/repair questions

[InDebtInDC]

Thanks to all the help I've received, I started this thread in hopes of helping others.

I am a certified technician with several years of professional experience. If you have any passenger car or light truck questions, I'll do my best to answer them, or at least point you to the right source.

I hope that we can all stretch our vehicle dollars a little further with a little preventive maintenance.

Anyone?

[jodi]

What a great idea! Auto repair is one skill I wish I had...but I have absolutely no inclination toward it. I don't have any specific questions, but I have been wondering what type of preventive maintenance I should be getting for my 2000 Ford Windstar (85k miles). I got it at 50k miles in July 04. It just passed inspection last month. I have a new air filter that I have to have my DH put in.
Here's the work I have had done:
8/05 brake shoes & drum, right tie rod replaced
6/05 a/c recharged (had to be recharged several times, but no leak could ever be found)
8/06 new brake pads, rotor resurfaced, wheel cylinders (rear brakes), new wiper blades
3/07 outer tie rod
It seems like there have been a few other things, but that's all the paperwork I have on it. I get the oil changed pretty regularly. I assume I should probably have a tune-up since I have never had one? Anything else I should look at given its age? It has two snow tires that were new last year, but left on over the summer (blush). They were just rotated to the back. The other tires are still in good shape.

[Broken Arrow]

Ah, I'm glad you're offering, because there's this one thing I've been wondering.

How often do you really have to change your oil?

[sweeps]

How much will it cost me to get a rear bumper replaced on a 2002 Toyota Camry?

[Aleta]

Wow! This could turn into a full-time job.

[InDebtInDC]

Originally Posted by jodi

I have been wondering what type of preventive maintenance I should be getting for my 2000 Ford Windstar (85k miles).

It really depends on what your objective is.

If all you want is something that can you run into the ground then all you really need is to change the oil often, replace the tyres, and give it new brakes every 2-3 years or so.

On the other extreme, I recommend you contact your local Ford dealer and ask for the factory recommended list of items to be serviced. Ask for the "severe" schedule because the way Americans typically drive is considered to be "severe". Don't get suckered in by the dealer. Anybody can do the job just as well as the dealer can. There is nothing special that the dealer knows that nobody else knows.

Then take that list to an independent shop that you trust. Usually it will be 20-30% cheaper than what a dealer would charge you. On top of what the dealer recommends, I recommend every BG service that applies to your vehicle. Untitled Document

The BG services are great if you want to keep your vehicle for a long time.

You can take classes at your local community college and see what you can do on your own to save money. Just be careful with brakes until you fully understand what's going on.

Originally Posted by jodi

I assume I should probably have a tune-up since I have never had one?

Between the 2 extremes above, you should probably get some of the minor "tune-up" stuff replaced as preventive maintenance. Typically this involves flushing out of all your fluids, replacing all filters, spark plugs, etc. You should top it off with checking the overall health of the engine and setting the engine back to factory specs. It should cost you about several hundred bucks at a good shop.

Originally Posted by jodi

Anything else I should look at given its age?

I don't know that specific model so I am unable to recommend a specific item. Please contact your local dealer as discussed above.

Originally Posted by jodi

It has two snow tires that were new last year, but left on over the summer (blush). They were just rotated to the back. The other tires are still in good shape.

I recommend that you remove those snow tyres ASAP. Snow tyres are meant only for snow, hence the name. They should not be used when there is no snow. The reason is that the tyres will be worn very rapidly. On top of that, snow tyres offer no traction on dry pavement, which makes it very unsafe since you have it on the back of the car. When the back tyres lose traction, you're more likely to lose control.

Make sure all 4 tyres are of the same make, model, size, and type.

Please do this ASAP because what you're doing is unsafe.

[InDebtInDC]

Originally Posted by Broken Arrow

How often do you really have to change your oil?

It depends on how you use your engine.

On one extreme, if you drive in NASCAR, you have to change your oil after every race.

On the other extreme, if you store your car and don't drive at all, once a year will suffice.


The average car will be somewhere in between. At the very least, go by what the manufacturer recommends, which is typically between 5000-75000 miles for new cars.

I recommend changing the oil every 3,000 miles or 3 months. It may seem excessive but the cost of an oil change is small compared to the cost of replacing an engine or a new car. It's not urgen that you do it on the dot, but you shouldn't let it go on too long.

[InDebtInDC]

Originally Posted by sweeps

How much will it cost me to get a rear bumper replaced on a 2002 Toyota Camry?

Please consult your local body shops for quotes. Even a skilled body guy couldn't give you an exact quote without seeing the car

A mechanics shop would typically charge 2-3 hours to remove and replace a rear bumper, provided there is no structural damage and no body work is required.

[MonkeyMama]

Our mechanic told us to change our oil every 6 months and we have followed that for decades. (we drive our cars forever, so haven't seen any harm there)). But I just wanted to add that I always heard if a car sits that you should change the oil more. Is that wrong then? There were so many years my husband barely drove that we put his car on a 3-month oil change schedule, as many people recommended. Just curious.

Oh, BTW I had a Saturn that went through oil like a fiend. I think that car probably should have been changed every month (the oil turned thick and dark very quickly). It depends on the car I am sure. The car was dirt cheap and great but dang it was an oil eater.

[Aleta]

I have also heard that it's more important to change the oil more frequently when the car is older. When I bought my car new, I heard that it could have run 7,500 miles without an oil change with no problem. Honda Civic.

[InDebtInDC]

Originally Posted by MonkeyMama

Our mechanic told us to change our oil every 6 months and we have followed that for decades. (we drive our cars forever, so haven't seen any harm there)).

You don't need to change the oil. Just drive the vehicle until the engine blows up. Then you replace the engine.

Oil is like insurance. It's better to have more than you need.


For average folks, 6 months is fine, but that would be pushing it if you commute in bumper-to-bumper stop/go traffic, or if you drive long distances.

My recommendation has always been 3months/3,000 miles, whichever comes first. A good shop should charge you $25-30 for an oil change, or if you do it yourself, the parts cost about $10-15.

Originally Posted by MonkeyMama

But I just wanted to add that I always heard if a car sits that you should change the oil more. Is that wrong then? There were so many years my husband barely drove that we put his car on a 3-month oil change schedule, as many people recommended. Just curious.

When I said once a year for a car in storage, I meant a car that is put into a garage and locked away for a long time. Part of the storage procedure include putting the car on blocks and disassembling half of the engine. This is assuming you won't be driving anywhere.

For a car that just sits in the driveway and driven intermittently, I recommend abiding by the 3month/3k miles. A car is either stored or it's not. If it's stored you need to store it properly so parts don't go bad. If it's not stored then you need to maintain it just like you're driving it every day.

Originally Posted by MonkeyMama

Oh, BTW I had a Saturn that went through oil like a fiend. I think that car probably should have been changed every month (the oil turned thick and dark very quickly). It depends on the car I am sure. The car was dirt cheap and great but dang it was an oil eater.

Burning oil is a sign that your engine seals are going out. The oil being dark usually means the engine has a lot of deposit in it. Not necessarily a bad thing though.

For older cars like that I would recommend the BG fluid flushes to keep it running clean, except for the engine oil flush which does more harm than good.

[InDebtInDC]

Originally Posted by Aleta

I have also heard that it's more important to change the oil more frequently when the car is older. When I bought my car new, I heard that it could have run 7,500 miles without an oil change with no problem. Honda Civic.

As an engine ages, the tolerances are not as tight as when it left the factory. You start seeing more debris and deposit in the oil. It's just part of aging.

What most people don't realize is how much maintenance you actually have to do to keep an engine in good shape. It's more than just changing the oil, but changing the oil often is a good start.

You don't need to change the oil more often as the car ages. You need to fix whatever you're masking with the frequent oil change. For example, if the car is eating oil, fix the seals. If the car is gunking up the oil, clean out the lubrication system.

By changing the oil often you're just hiding the root cause of the problem. That is, unless all you care about is saving money. Then changing the oil once a month would be a good band-aid until the car finally collapses.

[poundwise]

Here's my view on oil changes: Every vehicle manufacturer that I've seen says between 5K and 7.5K for oil changes. The, every 3K or 3 months rule came about as a way to get people to buy more oil and pay for oil change service more often. Both of my vehicle manuals suggest 6K to 7K for oil changes, unless I drive in harsh conditions, then they suggest 3K to 5K. I do my oil changes between 4.5K and 6K, usually as close to 5K as I can (this works out well with the tire rotation schedule too.)

Ok, I'm off that...

Here's a real question for you. My Dad has a 1995 Geo Metro LSi, 4 cylinder. He drove it somewhere one day last week and then, when he went to leave, it would not crank. He had it towed to a shop. It is not the starter, ignition switch, alternator, nor battery. They claim that something is causing the car to have a rich mixture and is essentially flooding the vehicle out. (The smell of gasoline is strong after trying to crank it for a while.)

They are now looking for a replacement computer for the vehicle.

Do you think, based on this limited info anyway, that they are barking up the right tree? Or does something else come to mind that we may ought to check?

By the way, I know... its a 95 Geo Metro... but, still, he'd like to get it running.

Thanks!

[InDebtInDC]

Originally Posted by poundwise

Here's my view on oil changes: Every vehicle manufacturer that I've seen says between 5K and 7.5K for oil changes. The, every 3K or 3 months rule came about as a way to get people to buy more oil and pay for oil change service more often. Both of my vehicle manuals suggest 6K to 7K for oil changes, unless I drive in harsh conditions, then they suggest 3K to 5K. I do my oil changes between 4.5K and 6K, usually as close to 5K as I can (this works out well with the tire rotation schedule too.)

The conditions listed for "Normal" service is 50mph at 70 degrees F. Anything other than that is considered "Severe". I don't know anyone who drives their car under "normal" conditions.

Granted, part of it is marketing, but the oil change also gives shops a reason to inspect the car to find more work to be done. Not necessarily a bad thing. It depends on the shop.

Oil change aside though, everyone should visually inspect their car once a week to see if anything is wrong. An early diagnosis can usually prevent expensive repairs later on.

Originally Posted by poundwise

Here's a real question for you. My Dad has a 1995 Geo Metro LSi, 4 cylinder. He drove it somewhere one day last week and then, when he went to leave, it would not crank. He had it towed to a shop. It is not the starter, ignition switch, alternator, nor battery. They claim that something is causing the car to have a rich mixture and is essentially flooding the vehicle out. (The smell of gasoline is strong after trying to crank it for a while.)

They are now looking for a replacement computer for the vehicle.

Do you think, based on this limited info anyway, that they are barking up the right tree? Or does something else come to mind that we may ought to check?

By the way, I know... its a 95 Geo Metro... but, still, he'd like to get it running.

When there is a crank but no start situation, you would usually look at fuel, spark, and compression/timing. Miss any of those 3 ingredients and the car won't run at all.

But you said it would not crank at all. Which leads me to believe that something in the car is preventing the starter motor from turning over.

A bad alternator doesn't cause a no crank because when you're cranking, the starter is running off of the battery, and not alternator current (when the engine is operating at low speed, the alternator doesn't make enough current). So provided your battery has a full charge, no crank is not related to the alternator.

I personally would start with the battery. Make sure the battery has sufficient charge. Sometimes a battery, old or new, that has been sitting a while will not be fully charged. Look for telltale signs of a weak battery like dim lights.

Next I would suspect the a bad ignition switch or wiring. The easiest way would be to unplug the harness at the starter solenoid. Then hook up a multimeter to the start signal wire. The wire should show current when you turn the key to start. If not then trace it back to the relay, switch, or the wiring along the way.

If everything checks out, I would suspect the starter. An easy way is to wire the battery straight to the starter solenoid with a switch. If it doesn't crank then there's something wrong with the starter. If it does then the igntion switch or wiring is bad.

If your mechanic can't diagnose the problem after that then take it a different shop.


My money is on a bad starter interlock relay. Usually you have to be in Park or holding the clutch down to start. If the switch is bad it won't know that you're in P or holding the clutch.



Now you say the car smells like gas. This would mean that it's a crank but no start situation.

You smell gas which means you have gas, but that doesn't necessarily mean you have the correct pressure. It's an easy check. The technician will hook up a fuel pressure gauge and see how much pressure the fuel pump is putting out. I would also check to see when was the last time he filled up on gas. If it's been over several months, the gas probably deteriorated and is now saturated with water. The fix would be draining the tank.

You say he went somewhere and came back, which usually means he filled up recently.

I would check spark. This is also an easy check. The technician will inspect the ignition wires while someone turns the key to start. It will be very obvious if you have sparks or not. The fix would be to replace the faulty ignition component.

If you have spark, then you check for compression and timing. A compression test is done by pulling the spark plug, plugging in the gauge, and cranking the engine. It measures how well the engine is compressing the fuel mixture. You can also do a leakdown test that measures how well the engine is able to maintain compression, but that's not necessary.

If you have bad compression, your engine is probably in need of a rebuild, which means you're better off selling the car or getting a used engine put in.

If compression is good, check timing. Your car has various sensors to tell the computer when to send the spark. Don't automatically assume that the computer is bad. It could be one of the sensors.

I would go through the procedures recommended by the manufacturer to diagnose a crank but no start before haphazardly replacing the computer. The computer is the most expensive part, and plugging a good computer into a car that isn't running right is a good way to fry the good computer.



In summary, I would have them check just about everything else before suspecting the computer. If they've done that then it's probably the computer.


To tell you the truth, I really dislike Metros. You can buy a Civic for a little more money and have a much more reliable car.

[Confetti]

Ok, since you offered.....
This problem has us and many others stumped. Our 2000 Ford F-150 is having electrical issues. When it's running, the windows, stereo, and wipers will not work. BUT, they work when you turn the key back to acc. We put in a new ignition switch, checked all things that could be checked, and still can't figure it out. Finally, hubby hard-wired the wipers onto a toggle switch so we can run it in the rain, and he wired up the stereo directly so it works, but the windows are still out. He got a copy of the wiring schematic and has a bunch of electrician friends on the case, but nothing yet. If you have any ideas, it would be much appreciated!

[InDebtInDC]

Originally Posted by Confetti

Ok, since you offered.....
This problem has us and many others stumped. Our 2000 Ford F-150 is having electrical issues. When it's running, the windows, stereo, and wipers will not work. BUT, they work when you turn the key back to acc. We put in a new ignition switch, checked all things that could be checked, and still can't figure it out. Finally, hubby hard-wired the wipers onto a toggle switch so we can run it in the rain, and he wired up the stereo directly so it works, but the windows are still out. He got a copy of the wiring schematic and has a bunch of electrician friends on the case, but nothing yet. If you have any ideas, it would be much appreciated!

To summarize, if the key is on ACC/I, the accessories work. If the key is on ON/II, the accessorie do not work.

With all 3 accessories working and not working at the same time, I suspect that there's nothing wrong with the accessories themselves. The problem is somewhere in the ignition switch circuitry.

I wouldn't start haphazardly replacing parts. You need to test and diagnose first so you don't waste your money.

I'll say this though. Electrical gremlins are very hard to diagnose, and may cause a lot of money. The more you can learn to do on your own the better.

I would start with the old ignition switch if you have it lying around. Look in the factory service manual. It will show wire colours. Generally you want to check for continuity or lack thereof between the pins listed in the manual. If it doesn't match up exactly, you know what the problem is.

Gnerally speaking, at OFF/0, no power is supplied except to the power and computer to maintain the battery, and some other accessories like lights and horn. At ACC/I, power is delivered to the accessories like wipers, windows, radio on, etc.

At ON/II, power is delivered to engine stuff like fuel pump, computer, ignition, etc.

At START, power is temporarily cut to all accessories to preserve battery cranking power. When you release back to ON/II, it operates as above.


I would first suspect the ignition switch to have a bad connector. If you replaced it with a used one, chances are they all have the same problem. If you have a new one I would test it any way.

I would then suspect the relay circuit, but this would be rare since everything works fine in ACC. I believe that the Ford uses the same wires to send power in ACC as it does in ON. If this is the case, I would highly suspect the ignition switch and its wiring.

Notwitstanding the above, if Ford uses different wires to power the accessories at ACC and ON, I would trace the ON circuitry and find the short or failed component along the line.


With all due respect, electricians don't necessarily understand vehicle electronics. You need someone good with diagnosing electrical gremlins in cars. The only problem is those people charge a lot of money.

Whatever you do, don't take it back to the dealer if you can help it. But if you've exhausted your options then that's the only way.


Check Home | National Highway Traffic Safety Administration(NHTSA) | U.S. Department of Transportation for recalls and Technical Service Bulletins (TSB) for your year/make/model. See if there is something available for that year F150.

Good luck!

[poundwise]

Originally Posted by InDebtInDC

In summary, I would have them check just about everything else before suspecting the computer. If they've done that then it's probably the computer.

Thank you for the comprehensive answer. I will relay it to my Dad.

Originally Posted by InDebtInDC

To tell you the truth, I really dislike Metros. You can buy a Civic for a little more money and have a much more reliable car.

There's no dispute that the Civic is a better car, however, my Dad bought this Metro in December 1994 with about 8K on it for $6,500. It's 12+ years and 179K miles later and this is the first major problem he has had with it.


Thanks again for your advice. I appreciate your answers and your willingness to participate like this on the forum.

[Confetti]

Thanks InDebtInDC - I will pass this along to DH. I know he has checked continuity and just about everything else you could imagine.
We checked on a Ford truck forum with the same question, and it has everyone there stumped. We also noticed that a couple of others with the same year and model truck had the same trouble, so we emailed Ford and asked if this was a known problem and whether they had a fix, and we stated we already took it to a Ford mechanic with no luck - Ford responded to take it to a Ford garage. ARGH!

Thanks for your input!!