Answers to your auto maintenance/repair questions

[sweeps]

Yeah I was satisfied with the $600 quote from the dealer. I expected it to be higher. I think the lady who wrote the estimate felt bad because I had to wait a long time while my wife and kids waited in the car. I was paying out of my own pocket, and not going through insurance, so I think that also makes a difference.

I think in general you're right, it's probably not worth it paying for repairs if you're going to trade in the car right away, but I took a calculated gamble and I think it paid off. I received even more than the Kelly Blue Book's "Good" trade-in value. If there was a big crack in the bumper cover, the dealer would've had the upper-hand in negotiations and I would've had to argue hard just to get the "Fair" trade-in value.

[InDebtInDC]

In my experience, the only thing the dealer cares about is mileage and overall condition of the car. They don't really nitpick like a private buyer would be just because they're going to make so much money off of your car any way.

You can be sure that if there is anything wrong with your car, the dealer will do a half-ass job of fixing it in-house and pass it along to the sucker who buys the used car at 10-30% markup.

[InDebtInDC]

An anonymous poster asked me this:

The person hates their 2000 Ford Focus ZX3 hatchback with 5-speed manual gearbox. The person reports a lot of problems with the car. The car is currently due for its 80k mile service, including water pump, timing belt. The clutch is possibly worn.

The person wants to know if it's worth it to get rid of the car due to imminent problems that are common with Fords. The person also wants to know how to approach buying a newish used car with more than 2 doors.


Briefly, I have personal experience with the 2000 Focus ZX3. In summary, they just plain suck. It's cheap new, but resale on that car is horrible because so many people have problems with it. If you read the reviews, the ZX3 is consistently rated lower than average for repair costs and reliability.

My recommendation would be to sell the Focus ASAP. Don't wait a single minute because that model is a ticking time bomb. Everybody I know with one reports problems as well so you're not alone.

Personally, I think Fords are some of the toughest cars to work on. I'm not against American cars. I just dislike working on Fords.


Once I decide to sell a car, I don't put a single dollar into repairs. Just clean it the best you can and sell it as-is. Don't be shock on the resale value because Fords just don't hold their value. You'll be lucky to get above $3k for it.

The timing belt will likely cost you at least $400-500 at a private garage. Twice that at a dealer. The clutch will also cost another $500 at a private garage.


As per your question about 2 vs. 4 doors, I recommend buying what fits your needs. There is really no difference between 2 and 4 door models in the same lineup, although some only comes in one configuration or another.

As I said above, you can't beat the value for a 96-00 Honda Civic CX/DX/LX/VP. I have a 98 LX 4-door. It has 130k+ miles on it, and runs like new. I maintain it normally as per the factory recommendations, and I had BG services done to flush out the fluids at 100K miles.

If you shop wisely you can find one for under $5k. If you're willing to invest a little bit up front to pick up the slack on maintenance from the previous owners, the car should last you many many years.


If you want to buy a newer used car, look at 2-3 year old models from major Japanese manufacturers (Toyota, Honda, Nissan, Mazda, Mitsubishi), although I prefer Toyota and Honda over the rest in terms of reliability and resale. Typically the last model year right before a major redesign is going to offer you the best value and reliability. New models take a few years to fix the bugs. If you're not sure, give Wikipedia a shot. The articles generally give a good outline on which design runs through which years.



If you're a little timid about buying used car, give CarMax a try. They have a really good 30 day warranty and they'll fix most of the things you complain about, within reason. I have inspected a lot of cars from CarMax and very rarely do I find major mechanical problems with them. Any minor hiccups they have fixed without problems under warranty.

[LivingAlmostLarge]

Thanks, that was me with the question about the Focus. I have to pry the car out of my DH's hands but this will give me ammo to discuss with him the potential to buy another used car.

When asked in my blog a lot of people didn't like the idea of me selling the focus and buying an older Honda, Toyota, or Subaru. They felt I was downgrading, but I wasn't sure if that was the case.

What do you feel about trading in a newer car 2000 and going backwards to a 1998 with more miles?

[InDebtInDC]

Originally Posted by LivingAlmostLarge

Thanks, that was me with the question about the Focus. I have to pry the car out of my DH's hands but this will give me ammo to discuss with him the potential to buy another used car.

When asked in my blog a lot of people didn't like the idea of me selling the focus and buying an older Honda, Toyota, or Subaru. They felt I was downgrading, but I wasn't sure if that was the case.

What do you feel about trading in a newer car 2000 and going backwards to a 1998 with more miles?

With all due respect, why is "downgrading" such a bad thing? If anything though, I consider it "upgrading".

I personally feel it's a great idea if you walk away saving money. That's the bottom line. If it's a different car I may reconsider, but with the Focus it's not even an after-thought.


I've had my mechanic certification for over 10 years now. I've worked on hundreds if not thousands of different types of cars. Ford is on the top of my list of cars to avoid.

If you're looking at Subarus, I would say avoid anything older than 2001. Mechanically they're all the same, but the older models just don't have good fit-and-finish, and eventually they'll drive you nuts with small things that don't work as they should.

I would recommend 2002 or newer Impreza 2.5RS/i for cost and availability. The only downside is a lot of kids buy them and modify them beyond reason. You may be better off stepping into something like a Forester or Outback because it's not as popular with kids. Mechanically they're all the same. The difference would be size and styling.


For Toyota, you really can't go wrong with a Corolla from any year. They're proven reliable if you're willing to put some minimal maintenance into it. If you need more space, step up to a Camry 4-cylinder. They're great cars as well in my experience.

For Honda, you can't lose with the Civic from 96-00. The only caution I would say is watch for kids. The Civic is very very popular with kids, and sometimes they modify them beyond reason. The good thing is replacement parts are cheap. You can probably buy anything you need on Craigslist or online at your local racing forum.

I know that every speed shop throws away perfectly good engines when kids swap out for more powerful engines. You can usually pick these up for a very small fee, or sometimes even free. I know of no newish car that has this much of a market for used parts.

The Accord is a good pick as well, but please make sure you pick up a 98 or newer. The older ones are unreliable and rough.


The old adage is that between reliability, low cost, and asthetics, you may only have two. Take your pick.

[InDebtInDC]

This week's tip: know state laws when traveling outside your home state.

The fact is that most state laws begin with "All vehicles traveling on highways of [insert state here] must comply with the following..."

Even though your car is registered in your home state, by law, your car must comply with every other state you travel through.

I personally think this violates the Interstate Commerce Act, but so far no one has challenged the states on this ground. Drivers beware.

I know that states in my area: VA and DC target out of state license plates because 99% of the times the car is non-compliant, and 99% won't show up for court.


For example, a GA car with no front license plate, which is legal in GA, gets a front plate ticket while driving in DC. This ticket was upheld by a DC
judge.

Another example, an MD car with MD-legal tint 35% all around gets a tint ticket while driving in VA where the legal limit is 50% front/35% rear. This ticket was upheld by a county judge.

I can go on and on. Please be aware of different state laws when traveling outside of your home state to avoid harassment.

I won't comment on law enforcement legitimacy or their comprehension of the legal codes. I'll just say that a lawyer who went through 3 years of law school and passed the bar is going to know a little more than a state trooper who went through the police academy. You can infer what you wish.

[LivingAlmostLarge]

I have a 1999 Corolla and I love it. Boring, not zippy, but practical and no problems since we've had it. Unfortunately because we've had the two cars side by side, we've treated them the same and have been able to immediately compare the difference in maintenance.

I don't know why people feel it's downgrading, but the suggestions were that I not dump the Ford Focus for an older car. I should keep holding onto it and wait for a newer car to become cheaper and then buy it.

My reasoning for dumping it is that I have a bad feeling in my bones as we hit 100k miles that it will start to break down. That more and more things will need to be repaired. I am not sure it's worth investing close to $3k to fix everything.

As it is, right now we have to refil the engine coolant all the time because there is a hole/leak in it. So that's probably a repair. We've had the car redone twice from accidents and even with the accidents we've had to repair a lot of stuff. Also the latch on the truck doesn't close all the time, we probably need to replace it. The timing belt, the clutch, and water pump is coming due apparently.

Right now when we drive over 50 mph, the car starts to shake terribly. I think it's because the rims on two of the tires are bent. Is that the problem?

1. brakes/rotors at 30k, told it was a common ford problem
2. key column
3. fuel pump and gauge
4. cleaned engine because spark plugs misfired and clogged it
5. door locks electric broke
6. struts

[InDebtInDC]

Originally Posted by LivingAlmostLarge

I have a 1999 Corolla and I love it. Boring, not zippy, but practical and no problems since we've had it. Unfortunately because we've had the two cars side by side, we've treated them the same and have been able to immediately compare the difference in maintenance.

I don't know why people feel it's downgrading, but the suggestions were that I not dump the Ford Focus for an older car. I should keep holding onto it and wait for a newer car to become cheaper and then buy it.

No disrespect, but apparently the people who made those suggestions have no idea what they're talking about. For an average car, I would say hand on to it. But for the Focus, good riddance.

With all due respect, how many of those people actually fixed a Focus with their own hands? If they did, I don't imagine they would sing the same tune.

Originally Posted by LivingAlmostLarge

My reasoning for dumping it is that I have a bad feeling in my bones as we hit 100k miles that it will start to break down. That more and more things will need to be repaired. I am not sure it's worth investing close to $3k to fix everything.

I agree. You have the right feelings and empirical evidence is consistent with your assessment.

Originally Posted by LivingAlmostLarge

As it is, right now we have to refil the engine coolant all the time because there is a hole/leak in it.

Do you know if there's a leak? Is there coolant on the ground when you park overnight? If you're not sure, please take the car in ASAP for a coolant pressure test. What they'll do is simulate operating condition by pumping 15-20 PSI into the radiator and see if it springs a leak.

The worst case scenario is that they see no visible leak. This means that your head gasket is blown. Coolant is getting burned. Figure about $1,000-1,500 for a head gasket replacement.

Originally Posted by LivingAlmostLarge

So that's probably a repair. We've had the car redone twice from accidents and even with the accidents we've had to repair a lot of stuff. Also the latch on the truck doesn't close all the time, we probably need to replace it.

The trunk latch probably needs adjustment. If you want to fix it, have a body shop, not a regular garage, look at it. Body shops are better at aligning body panels like that.

Originally Posted by LivingAlmostLarge

The timing belt, the clutch, and water pump is coming due apparently.

Right now when we drive over 50 mph, the car starts to shake terribly. I think it's because the rims on two of the tires are bent. Is that the problem?

It may be any number of things: wheel/tyre out of balance, something in the drivetrain that's loose, bad engine, bad clutch, bad gearbox, anything. There's no way to know without seeing.

Can you describe the shaking?

Originally Posted by LivingAlmostLarge

1. brakes/rotors at 30k, told it was a common ford problem
2. key column
3. fuel pump and gauge
4. cleaned engine because spark plugs misfired and clogged it
5. door locks electric broke
6. struts

1. This is normal. Brakes and discs/rotors usually need replacement every 30k, sooner depending on driving habit.

2. A lot of Fords have problems with the ignition switch, as reported by the person with the F150 above.

3. Fuel pump failure rate is also high in the Ford. To prevent premature failure, never drive with less than 1/2 tank. The fuel cools the pump and low fuel = hot pump.

4. What does "clean engine" mean? Misfiring spark plug = something wrong with the ignition system. You need to check spark and timing to make sure it's working probably.

5. Unfortunately this is common on American cars. The electronic accessories start to go after 5 years.

6. I would say this is normal depending on use. If you load/unload a lot, suspension is going to go sooner than later.


Overall the shaking problem worries me most. I don't know what it is, but I can't imagine it being good. You can start with balancing all 4 wheels, rotating them, and get an alignment. Then go on from there.

[LivingAlmostLarge]

[quote=InDebtInDC;136250]No disrespect, but apparently the people who made those suggestions have no idea what they're talking about. For an average car, I would say hand on to it. But for the Focus, good riddance.

With all due respect, how many of those people actually fixed a Focus with their own hands? If they did, I don't imagine they would sing the same tune.

I honestly don't know. I worry about many things about our cars but living in Boston now I hate his car. I worry about DH all the time. But he says it's the driver and not the car, and he's a good winter driver growing up in Canada without AWD or even a big car, he drove a jetta.


Do you know if there's a leak? Is there coolant on the ground when you park overnight? If you're not sure, please take the car in ASAP for a coolant pressure test. What they'll do is simulate operating condition by pumping 15-20 PSI into the radiator and see if it springs a leak.

Nope, the hole is above the minimum level. The A/C and heat stop working and we refil it. We just keep on filling it up. It seems fine as soon as we top it off. We've taken it in and no one's mentioned anything.



It may be any number of things: wheel/tyre out of balance, something in the drivetrain that's loose, bad engine, bad clutch, bad gearbox, anything. There's no way to know without seeing.

Can you describe the shaking?

The shaking is just the steering wheel, etc. I think it's because the rim is leaking air so the car feels off balance. I'm not sure. We're ordering new rims but I ordered the "wrong" finish so we have to return it and get a new rim. It leaks so the tire is good but it becomes "flat". Otherwise the tires are aligned and balanced and rotated regularly.

1. This is normal. Brakes and discs/rotors usually need replacement every 30k, sooner depending on driving habit.

-told that brake pads and rotors usually last 60k miles. My corolla lasted one chage of pads and the rotors/pads were replaced at almost 90k finally.

2. A lot of Fords have problems with the ignition switch, as reported by the person with the F150 above.

-the key jammed one night.

3. Fuel pump failure rate is also high in the Ford. To prevent premature failure, never drive with less than 1/2 tank. The fuel cools the pump and low fuel = hot pump.

DH was super careful, but the fuel gauge broke and he wouldn't read that there was gas in the tank. And then the pump broke too!
4. What does "clean engine" mean? Misfiring spark plug = something wrong with the ignition system. You need to check spark and timing to make sure it's working probably.

-they just cleaned the engine. They basically redid the whole engine or something. It stopped the banging noise in the engine.

5. Unfortunately this is common on American cars. The electronic accessories start to go after 5 years.

6. I would say this is normal depending on use. If you load/unload a lot, suspension is going to go sooner than later.

-the struts went at like 40k. I think it was ridiculous.
Sorry but I swear this car just frustrates me. Problem one, never buy first year of a new car. Second, it's a FORD. DH loves the hatchback so he loves the car. BUT he's also realized how much we've spent comparatively on the two cars.

I don't know why but the people on the blog suggested not picking up an older used car and said I was stupid. I'm going to keep thinking and mulling it over.

Living Almost Large: Dumping good money after bad...

[InDebtInDC]

Originally Posted by LivingAlmostLarge

I honestly don't know. I worry about many things about our cars but living in Boston now I hate his car. I worry about DH all the time. But he says it's the driver and not the car, and he's a good winter driver growing up in Canada without AWD or even a big car, he drove a jetta.

I agree with him. It's not the car at all. I drove a RWD sport car through the winter with summer tyres and I was okay. The only time I got stuck was on ice while going uphill. Provided there is no ice on the ground I was fine.

My friend from upstate NY drives a Miata in the snow. It has 50/50 weight distribution which actually helps a lot even though it's RWD.

Originally Posted by LivingAlmostLarge

Nope, the hole is above the minimum level. The A/C and heat stop working and we refil it. We just keep on filling it up. It seems fine as soon as we top it off. We've taken it in and no one's mentioned anything.

What hole are you talking about? Again, ask for a coolant pressure test and see what they say. If they have no idea, I suggest taking it to a reputable shop.

Originally Posted by LivingAlmostLarge

The shaking is just the steering wheel, etc. I think it's because the rim is leaking air so the car feels off balance. I'm not sure. We're ordering new rims but I ordered the "wrong" finish so we have to return it and get a new rim. It leaks so the tire is good but it becomes "flat". Otherwise the tires are aligned and balanced and rotated regularly.

Give TireRack.com a try. If you buy wheels and tyres at the same time, they will mount and balance for free. If you add up the cost of buying online vs. installation at a local shop, you'll find that the online is almost the same or slightly cheaper.

If you do decide to go with Tire Rack, reference Neal in your order. If there's any problem he'll take care of you. If you're still not satisfied I'll speak with him. I'm a volume customer and he has helped me a lot in the past.

Originally Posted by LivingAlmostLarge

-told that brake pads and rotors usually last 60k miles. My corolla lasted one chage of pads and the rotors/pads were replaced at almost 90k finally.

I respectfully disagree. You were told wrong. If you looked in the owner's manual, there is no prescribed period of replacement for the brakes, mileage or time. All it says is to periodically perform a visual inspection and repair as necessary.

This is because brake wear is highly dependent on driving habit. I can go through a complete set of pads and discs in one day on my race car. The furthest I've been able to drag out my street car was about 30k miles with easy driving.

You have to measure the pad/pad thickness/run-out with a micrometer. If anything is out of spec, you have to replace. Most shops will cheap out and regrind the old disc. Replacement discs are so cheap now that it's not worth the labour to regrind the old one. $25 to regrind each disc vs. $30+shipping for a new disc. The new disc will have more mass and be able to absorb more heat = better braking.

Originally Posted by LivingAlmostLarge

-the key jammed one night.

Again, this is expected. Sad still.

Originally Posted by LivingAlmostLarge

DH was super careful, but the fuel gauge broke and he wouldn't read that there was gas in the tank. And then the pump broke too!

Don't trust the gauge. I usually try to go by mileage if possible.

Originally Posted by LivingAlmostLarge

-they just cleaned the engine. They basically redid the whole engine or something. It stopped the banging noise in the engine.

If you can find your receipt and let me know what they did. You should keep a complete service record to help resale value.

Originally Posted by LivingAlmostLarge

-the struts went at like 40k. I think it was ridiculous.

Again, like brakes, suspension wear is dependent on use. I imagine if you carry a lot of passengers/cargo with frequent load/unloading, you'll have damage sooner or later.

Without examining the actual strut itself, I have no way of knowing if it's normal wear and tear or premature failure, but as said with the brakes, the factory makes no suggestion regarding repairs of the suspension. It's only a periodic visual inspection and repair as needed.

Originally Posted by LivingAlmostLarge

Sorry but I swear this car just frustrates me. Problem one, never buy first year of a new car. Second, it's a FORD. DH loves the hatchback so he loves the car. BUT he's also realized how much we've spent comparatively on the two cars.

I agree. If you're stuck on the hatchback, 96-00 Civic CX/DX hatchback. I had a 99 that I sold in 04. I really regret selling it and wish I kept it.

Originally Posted by LivingAlmostLarge

I don't know why but the people on the blog suggested not picking up an older used car and said I was stupid. I'm going to keep thinking and mulling it over.

Living Almost Large: Dumping good money after bad...[/color]

Originally Posted by Boomie

I have a Ford Focus also. Haven't a lot of your car troubles been the result of your 2 accidents? If you think the repairs on an American car are high, what do you think the repairs on a foreign car (who has to import the parts) will be? Much higher, I am sorry to say.
Why would you buy a 98 model or older model than Focus?
Sounds to me that you are very hard on your vehicles. Hitting people is not a good thing.
My advice: repair Focus, keep it running as long as possible and then buy a later model AWD car later on (2001 etc.), as you save your money.

I disagree with his statement that foreign cars cost more to repair. While this was true 20 years ago and may be true now for European makes, Hondas and Toyotas have come a long way. You know the Corolla.

I have been repairing Hondas for most of my automative career. I prefer 4-cylinder Hondas and Toyotas over just about anything else.

There is nothing wrong with buying an older car if that older car is cheaper overall than the Focus.

Originally Posted by Barb1954

We would never buy a Ford again because of the unreliability we've had with them in the past. A foreign car, like a Honda or Toyota, is much more reliable and will run much longer. I heard that the newer Subarus are not as reliable as older models, so getting a used one is a good idea. Have a mechanic check it out first, however.

I disagree with the bit about newer Subarus being less reliable than older ones. I've worked on a lot of Subarus, and generally the drivetrain is almost identical from year to year barring some minor internal changes.

The biggest improvement is in the chassis. The newer the year, the better it is. Older Subarus have a lot of mechanical problems and I don't like them nearly as much as the newer ones.

I don't recommend a 97-98 wagon. If you're strapped for cash, 02+ Impreza 2.5RS/i like I said above, or Forester or Outback.

Originally Posted by Boomie

It's a 2005 Focus, bought new but at end of season (so, really 2006) and I paid cash for it. It's a station wagon and has manual, stick shift transmission. Ford Focus has zero pollution emissions and I am very happy with it. I get almost 36 miles to the gallon.

Respectfully, it may be a PZEV (Partial Zero Emissions Vehicle), but no gasoline car has zero tailpipe emissions.

My 99 Civic CX hatchback 5-speed gets consistently high 30s mixed driving. My 98 LX sedan automatic gets about low to mid 30s mixed.

Originally Posted by Nonsense Means No Cents

I'd keep your current junker instead of buying a new-to-you used car. I agree with Boomie on all points- cheaper repairs with the Ford, save money in the short-medium range term, and hitting people is not a good thing.

More importantly, like you mentioned, you'd be risking more money for a potential lemon with an equally disastrous fate to your Ford. Good luck!

Same comments as above.


Overall, I'm just one person so ultimately you have to make the decision. You can always drive the junker until it dies. You can try to sell it for as much as you can and get another car. It's really up to you.

Just don't blame me if you buy a used car with problem. Some cars are designed better than others, but it really depends on how the previous owner took care of it. Just inspect it really well and do a CarFax before buying.

[LivingAlmostLarge]

Nope, I"ll go and look through my impeccably kept records tomorrow But seriously I need to look over our car more. I really want to get something practical to drive.

I get 30 mpg on my corolla, and it's been dirt cheap to fix. Considering I'm a harder driver it's weird that my car has kept together better. But thank you.

Going to look for more details for you.

[InDebtInDC]

Actually, if you're looking to splurge consider the Toyota MR2 Spyder. It uses the same drivetrain as the Corolla, but it's lighter (2 seat convertible) so it gets better gas mileage.

The engine is in the back so it's even better than a FWD car. All of the weight is already on the driving wheels, and the weight stays there no matter how you drive.

Plus since it's a convertible, most people tend not to drive it as much so mileage tends to be very low.


Come on. I'm working with you here.

[LivingAlmostLarge]

No, can't splurge. I plan on having kids in the next 2 years probably. And we'll probably have 2-4. So I'm thinking long term.

Is it practical to buy a used car to trade it in when we need something large? Get something fun then move to something practical?

[InDebtInDC]

Originally Posted by LivingAlmostLarge

No, can't splurge. I plan on having kids in the next 2 years probably. And we'll probably have 2-4. So I'm thinking long term.

Is it practical to buy a used car to trade it in when we need something large? Get something fun then move to something practical?

Any time you buy and sell a car you'll incur a transaction cost, much like your investment account.

Unless you are very very savvy with your car, there are only 2 non-classic cars I know of that can hold their value to make it worthwhile: 93-98 Toyota Supra Turbo 6-speed, 97-98 Acura Integra Type R. Both of these are under 25 years old. Classic cars are 25+ years old.

Otherwise, Porsches tend to hold their values well, but you'll have to spend a hefty amount to buy them.


I don't think it's worth it. Just get what you want and run the car into the ground without pouring too much money into it.