Answers to your auto maintenance/repair questions

[poundwise]

Just a follow-up: After some more time in the shop and an estimate for the repair, my Dad decided to dump the Geo. He sold it as scrap for enough to pay the towing bill & incurred labor charges and will walk away with a little cash in his pocket.

Thanks again for the info DC.

[InDebtInDC]

I think the Metro is all tapped out. You've got a lot of mileage out of it so tell your dad don't feel bad about it.

[Aleta]

InDebtInDC: Thank you so much for adding to our forum. You add a whole new perspective to saving money for us. You have been very prompt and straight forward about answering the questions.

[sweeps]

Hey, DC, this new rule about using a quarter instead of a penny to determine if your tire tread is too thin. Do you subscribe to that, or is it just a sales gimmick for the tire companies?

[InDebtInDC]

Originally Posted by sweeps

Hey, DC, this new rule about using a quarter instead of a penny to determine if your tire tread is too thin. Do you subscribe to that, or is it just a sales gimmick for the tire companies?

I believe this is what started it: Tire Tech - Measuring Tire Tread Depth with a Coin


I use a tire tread depth gauge like this: Milton Industries S448 Tire Tread Depth Gauge

I personally believe the requirement for tread depth is misleading because tyre performance is not a unidimensional metric. This is where I differ from most people.

First, wet and dry traction are inversely proportional. When one goes up, the other goes down. New tyres have good wet traction, but bad dry traction. Used tyres have good dry traction, but bad wet traction.

Some tyres are designed to be driven with no tread at all. Some bargain tyres will burst even with plenty of tread left. It depends on the design.


By regulating the tread depth, the lawmakers in effect mandate that you sacrifice dry traction for wet traction. Empirical evidence suggests that people tend to go fast in good weather and slow down in bad weather. If a tyre fails in dry conditions, the speed of the vehicle tends to be higher. If a tyre fails in wet conditions, the speed of the vehicle tends to be lower.

Why then is it logical to prevent lower speed crashes? A dry tree will kill you just as well as wet tree.


Obviously there is marketing involved. The sooner you replace tyres, the more money they make.

I personally believe it's important to maintain your tyres:

1) Always check your tyre pressure when the tyre is at ambient temperature. Tyre pressure should be somewhere between the car's manufacturer's recommend pressure and the tyre's maximum rated pressure.

2) Inspect the sidewalls on both sides for punctures.

3) Inspect the tread for punctures.

4) Measure tread depth on all parts of the tread to check for uneven wear.

5) Make sure you use the proper size and type, and that at least both sides on the same axle match.

If there is a problem, find out what the problem is, e.g. alignment, suspension, road debris, etc. Putting new tyres on a car with suspension will ruin your new tyres.

It is more important to understand the operating tread depth of the design. Like I said above, some tyres are designed to operate with no tread, while others will explode even with some tread left. This is dependent on how much reinforcement is under the tread.

Some tyres can even be shaved down close to zero depth for maximum dry traction because the treads can actually shift and start chunking. The moral of the story is that the tyre's useful service life is not dependent on the tread depth.

I recommend contacting the manufacturer to obtain the recommended operating depth for your application. They tend to err on the side of caution and overestimate, so be wary of that.

Shopping for tyres is like shopping for shoes. So I won't get into that for now.

[InDebtInDC]

This week's tip: How To Save Money at the Gas Pump


1) Before filling up, check with the manufacturer to see what octane rating is recommended for your engine. This information can usually be found in the owner's manual, or a quick call to your local dealer can usually resolve it. If your vehicle has an aftermarket engine, consult your engine builder for the recommended octane.

2) Use only the recommended octane. No more, no less. A lower octane may cause problems for your engine. A higher octane may cost you more with no benefit, and may even cause problems for your engine. You're not doing your engine a service by going for a higher octane than what's recommended.

3) Make sure you understand what the numbers mean and use the right rating. Different countries and different parts of the country rate gasoline differently. Octane rating - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

4) Filling up after dark when the ambient temperature is cooler may help stretch your gas dollar because cooler gas = denser gas = slightly more gas by volume.

5) Be wary of small gas stations that advertise low prices. I recommend patronising a high traffic station even if their prices are slightly higher. This is because if gas sits for a long time, it starts collecting water. A busy station has quicker turnover and tends to clean out their in-ground filter more often. A few bucks saved at the pump may cost you much more for repairs as the result of using bad gas.

[sweeps]

Originally Posted by InDebtInDC

The moral of the story is that the tyre's useful service life is not dependent on the tread depth

Thanks for the info, DC.

[jodi]

Hey DC, before I type out my lengthy question, can you address questions on a car radio? Mine's on the fritz and I'm trying to determine if I need a new radio or if there is a problem with the wiring/fuse, etc. Thanks!

[InDebtInDC]

Originally Posted by jodi

Hey DC, before I type out my lengthy question, can you address questions on a car radio? Mine's on the fritz and I'm trying to determine if I need a new radio or if there is a problem with the wiring/fuse, etc. Thanks!

What do you mean by "on the fritz"? Does it come on like normal? Does it come on but no sound? Is it factory or aftermarket? What is the year/make/model and audio option for your car?


Obviously you would want to take a quick look at the radio fuse in the underdash fusebox. Typically it's a 15A fuse.

If all of your accessories, lights, and clock work, chances are the radio fuse is fine as well, but check just in case.


Depending on the make/model of your car, radios are so cheap these days that it's not even worth the labour to fix them. Assuming the wiring is good, you're almost always better off replacing the old one with a new unit. Figure it would cost about $100 and change for a new one if you installed it yourself.

I recommend Crutchfield: Car Audio, Home Theater, Speakers, Home Electronics for best service. They give you the wiring harness so you can piece it together. They can also refer you to a local installer if you're not mechanically inclined.

[jodi]

Ok, here's the details, since you asked
I have a 2000 Ford Windstar with original radio/tape deck. About 6 months ago, my tape deck (yes, I AM stuck in the 80's) started to "flip" the tape while it was playing. I would be listening to side A, then it would flip to side B, and back & forth until I finally stopped using it. The radio still worked fine until a week or two ago. I would be listening to the radio when the tape deck would click on and continue clicking (with no tape in it). At first, I was able to push the tape eject button or turn the power off to get the radio back on, but eventually that stopped working and the tape deck would click continuously, so I would have to turn the whole thing off. Yesterday, just to make this interesting, whenever I would go over a bump the tape deck would click on. If I went over another bump, the radio would click on. Randomly, the tape deck would still click on, I would power the system off, and wait until I came upon another bumpy road to get my radio back
During my last car inspection, the mechanic loosened a fuse which caused my radio to stop working. DH fixed it. That was before all this craziness started, so I don't think it's related. Nothing else seems to be broken.
I probably will just buy a new unit. I can find them very cheap on E-bay, esp. since I don't require a CD player. I'm just hesitant about self-installation. I'm a technical moron, and DH is not much better when it comes to cars.
Side note: My kids did ruin my mother's car radio by putting coins into the CD slot. It's not beyond imagination that they could have performed a similar stunt in my car...so could loose coins cause this type of malfunction?

Thanks for your input!!!

[InDebtInDC]

Originally Posted by jodi

Ok, here's the details, since you asked
I have a 2000 Ford Windstar with original radio/tape deck. About 6 months ago, my tape deck (yes, I AM stuck in the 80's) started to "flip" the tape while it was playing. I would be listening to side A, then it would flip to side B, and back & forth until I finally stopped using it. The radio still worked fine until a week or two ago. I would be listening to the radio when the tape deck would click on and continue clicking (with no tape in it). At first, I was able to push the tape eject button or turn the power off to get the radio back on, but eventually that stopped working and the tape deck would click continuously, so I would have to turn the whole thing off. Yesterday, just to make this interesting, whenever I would go over a bump the tape deck would click on. If I went over another bump, the radio would click on. Randomly, the tape deck would still click on, I would power the system off, and wait until I came upon another bumpy road to get my radio back
During my last car inspection, the mechanic loosened a fuse which caused my radio to stop working. DH fixed it. That was before all this craziness started, so I don't think it's related. Nothing else seems to be broken.
I probably will just buy a new unit. I can find them very cheap on E-bay, esp. since I don't require a CD player. I'm just hesitant about self-installation. I'm a technical moron, and DH is not much better when it comes to cars.
Side note: My kids did ruin my mother's car radio by putting coins into the CD slot. It's not beyond imagination that they could have performed a similar stunt in my car...so could loose coins cause this type of malfunction?

Thanks for your input!!!

I've actually seen this problem on a couple of cassette players. Usually it means it's time to replace it when it starts clicking like that. A coin may be stuck in it, but at this point I'm not sure unless I open it and see.

Dual XC4100 Cassette player at Crutchfield.com

Crutchfield is very helpful and will walk you through the installation over the phone. Plus they provide you with free detailed instructions and picture.


It's not that expensive to step up to a CD player, and you can select one with a retractable tray to avoid the coin problem with the kids.

[jodi]

THANKS! I will definitely be getting a new radio. For what they cost, you're right - it's not worth beating my head against the wall trying to fix this one. As for the CD player - no use for it. I either listen to NPR or books on tape (yes, I know they have CDs on tape too...). I probably only own about 4 or 5 CDs, which I can easily fit on my phone (MP3 player) to listen to in the car, if I wanted to.

[InDebtInDC]

This week's tip: How to save money with a blowout


Ever see people struggle on the side of the road with a flat tyre? If you've been there you know it's not a good feeling. I bet that 90% of people don't know how to change a flat tyre. Even if you have free towing you're almost always better off changing it yourself and be on your way.


I recommend you have the following tools in your car:

* Emergency jack and handle
* Lug wrench
* A long cheater bar. You can go to Home Depot and buy a long pipe. You slide it over the lug wrench to give you more leverage to break the stubborn lug nuts.
* A rubber mallet. You use this to pound on the sidewall of the tyre if the wheel is stuck.
* Torque wrench and appropriate socket for torquing the lug nuts. Check with your local auto parts store. Ask for a good high quality lug nut torque wrench and a deep well 6 point socket that fits your car.
* Glow in the dark triangles.
* Fix-a-flat as last resort.
* 12v air pump that plugs into your cigarette lighter.
* Air pressure gauge


While at the parts store you may also want to pick a can of brake cleaner and a canister of antiseize compound. See below.

The hardest part with changing a flat tyre is that you need to rehearse it like a NASCAR pit crew. The more quickly you can fix it and be on your way the safer you will be. Changing a flat in your driveway on a sunny afternoon is not the same as 2am in the rain on the side of the interstate.


I recommend doing this maintenance every 6 months because of the temperature change.


1) Go find your owner's manual. If you don't have one, you may purchase one from your dealer.

2) Read the section on how to change a flat tyre.

3) Go find your spare tyre, tools, and jack. Not all cars will have a spare because they have run flats. If you're missing anything you can check with your dealer.

4) If you have wheel locks make sure you have the key. As a rule of thumb I do not recommend wheel locks because they are not an effective theft-deterrent. It actually takes less time to break a wheel lock than to undo a regular lug nut.

5) Park your car in a safe and flat surface overnight. You want the wheels and tyres to be cold for best results.

6) Pick a corner of the car to work on. Remove the wheel as per the instructions in the owner's manual. If you're struggling, use the breaker bar to give yourself more leverage. If you're still struggling, take the car to your mechanic and have them remove the wheel lugs with air tools and retorque properly.

Sometimes the lug nuts rust and seize themselves to the car. Also, sometimes your mechanic will be sloppy and overtighten the lug nuts.

If you're struggling now, imagine how it would be on the side of the road.

7) If you have removed all the lug nuts but the wheel is stuck, hit the outside sidewall of the tyre with your rubber mallet. Go around in circle and tap lightly. Eventually the wheel will free itself.

What happens is rust and lack of maintenance causes the wheel to glue itself to the hub of the car.

8) Once the wheel is off, you'll want to inspect the brakes and suspension. Look for any leak or broken parts and fix as necessary. Go ahead and spray the brakes with brake cleaner liberally. Be sure to hit the area where the wheel mounts onto the hub.

9) Now is a good time to inspect the tyre. Check the tread and sidewall for punctures as well.

10) Before reinstalling the wheel, give the hub a light coat of antiseize compound where it meets the wheel and lug nuts. This will prevent seizing in the future.

11) Install the lug nuts and lower the car as per the owner's manual. Use the torque wrench and apply the amount of torque specified in the owner's manual.

12) Repeat for all tyres.

After you're done, go around and check tyre pressure, including the spare. I recommend adding +5 psi to the factory recommended pressure.



The first time you do this you'll find that it may take you several hours, but with practice and good maintenance you can cut down your time to about 5 minutes. Spend the time and struggle up front. You'll be safer and save money later.

[terry1156]

Here's my question: Do you use more fuel with the air conditioning on and windows rolled up or the air conditioning off and the windows rolled down? aIf id depends on speed, at what speed does the change take place?

[InDebtInDC]

Originally Posted by terry1156

Here's my question: Do you use more fuel with the air conditioning on and windows rolled up or the air conditioning off and the windows rolled down? aIf id depends on speed, at what speed does the change take place?

This was on an episode of Mythbuster. If you're pressed for a semi-scientific answer you may search for it.

Generally speaking, a vehicle with the windows rolled down creates more aerodynamic drag than one with a vehicle with the window roll up. The higher the speed of the vehicle = the higher the drag resistance.

We also know that the air conditioning compressor becomes more efficient with higher engine speed. The faster you go = the more negligible the a/c resistance becomes.


If we plotted the parasytic losses on a graph, the point where the two lines intercept would depend on the shape of the vehicle and the efficiency of the engine.

There really is no way to know exactly what that speed is because vehicles are different, but the general consensus in the industry is that at highway speeds, you're better off closing the windows and blasting the a/c.


Sorry but I don't think anyone can give you a better answer than that without putting your vehicle in a wind tunnel.

[InDebtInDC]

Just a reminder, it was raining heavily yesterday and I must have seen at least 10 cars on the side of the road with flat tyres. I would have stopped and helped except that we're not really supposed to. The state provides guys who drive around in commuter assistance trucks to help fix stuff like that.

[sweeps]

Originally Posted by sweeps

How much will it cost me to get a rear bumper replaced on a 2002 Toyota Camry?

The answer is $600, for whoever was interested. A good investment, actually, because I just traded the car in for $9,600 -- I probably would've been lucky to get $8,000 with a cracked bumper.

[InDebtInDC]

Originally Posted by sweeps

The answer is $600, for whoever was interested. A good investment, actually, because I just traded the car in for $9,600 -- I probably would've been lucky to get $8,000 with a cracked bumper.

I assume $600 includes the cost of a new bumper plus paint and labor.

I have no idea what the person was asking by "replacing". To me that literally means unbolt the old one and bolt on a new one.

Obviously if he has a massive rear end collision it's going to involve a lot more than that.

[sweeps]

A new bumper is just that, a new bumper. If the car suffered a "massive rear end collision" I probably would've mentioned that. Yes, that includes the cost of paint and labor. I just posted it here for reference in case someone else was curious -- please don't take it personally.

[InDebtInDC]

Originally Posted by sweeps

A new bumper is just that, a new bumper. If the car suffered a "massive rear end collision" I probably would've mentioned that. Yes, that includes the cost of paint and labor. I just posted it here for reference in case someone else was curious -- please don't take it personally.

No offense was taken. I was just pointing out that original question was vague and indefinite. I quoted him labour to unbolt a bumper and bolt a new one back in, even if it's the same bumper.

In the industy, "remove and replace" (R&R) literally means that. If you want additional work done like paint, bodywork, parts, it's going to cost you extra.

To me though, $600 sounds a little on the low side for a dealer. That sounds like what an independent shop would charge. A rear bumper cover alone is almost $400 new from the dealer.

If you're getting an insurance appraisal, it's much better to get a quote from an authorized dealer using new parts. Don't forget color matching because the rest of the car has faded. You need to blend the panels so they're a consistent shade. The car has to be in the exact shape as it was pre-accident.


In my experience though, if you decide to sell a car it's no longer financially sound to invest any more money in repairs. Just clean it up and sell it as is. Any repairs you make won't net you a matching increase in sale price. I usually just deduct from book value the amount required for the repairs.