Since this thread was brought back to life i would like to add a couple more tips and a couple of misconceptions people have.
First of all you should start of buy ordering a consumer reports packet on that perticular car which usually cost 30-40 dollars but trust me its worth it. You will be able to see everything from invoice to holdback to dealer fees. Next step would be to do what everyone else mentioned and fax or email (which would be the best way since its usually the internet dept that deals with emails) exactly what you want and when you want it. Usually you will get a pretty competitive price with in a respective amount of time.
Misconception:
"price drops the second you buy it by like 20% at least"
Not always true at all. I totaly agree that buying a car two years old or even one year old with a reminder of the warranty would be the best bet since its lost alot of value but to say to be a car with in that year model with a couple of thousand miles will not always be that much less. It happens to be specially now where cars are marked down like crazy with factory rebates as much as 7-8k dollars or even no intrest loans that they offer that you are not saving much to go with that demo.
Take for instance a Pontiac G8 where this past month they are offering 4k dollars in rebates or 0 precent for 72 months. The prices of used ones on dealers lots are not much less if 500-100 dollars less then you can pick a new one for. A honda for example definetly does not lose 20 precent. Try buying almost any 2009 Honda with demo miles or even 5-8k miles and you may save 500-1000 at best. Next time you look at a lightly used car and it says Original sticker price 30k dollars now marked down to 21k ingnore that and look at what they were going for new.
So 20 precent is far stretched. 20 precent of MSRP? Possible. But not the purchase price.
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